But right across the street is another, lesser-known, laksa stall – a hidden gem along the cramped streets of Air Itam.

The shouting of hawkers and clamour of wet-market vendors; the revving of car engines and zooming motorcycles – the seller in charge of Bisu Laksa is oblivious to it all, as 68-year-old Choo Heng Fook is deaf and mute.

Heng Fook’s sister, 66-year-old Choo Siew Choo, says their father started the stall in 1957.

“It’s the oldest here in the entire food court,” she says, gesturing to the other stalls in the Air Itam Market Annex Food Court, which are also run by second-generation owners.

Siew Choo has been dishing up laksa since 2015, prior to which Heng Fook – who was born deaf and mute – ran the stall on his own as she had a job on the mainland.

Once she retired and her children had lives of their own, she returned to the island to help her brother.

“He’s been working here since his teens – more than 50 years – as he wasn’t the studious sort. He learnt the recipe from our father,” she tells FMT, as Heng Fook crouches at the back of the stall deboning fish.

Bisu Laksa has a cult following among the local community, many of whom grew up with the Choo family laksa.

“Before the pandemic, lots of people would come over to our stall after they visited Kek Lok Si,” Siew Choo recalls.

“It was mostly tourists who would go to the opposite stall while locals came to ours,” she says, adding that since the other business closed, she has seen new faces among the regulars.

For those who have been coming here for years, a silent exchange with a few gestures is all they need for a piping hot bowl of laksa to arrive at their table.

As for newcomers, the stall’s name helps them be aware of the chef’s disability as “bisu” means “mute” in Malay.

“Before I helped him, people would use their hands to tell him their orders. If they had difficulties, the stall owners from next door would step in and help,” Siew Choo says gratefully, adding that her brother managed most of the time.

While business only starts at 10.30am, the pair are here from as early as 7am as Heng Fook heads to the Air Itam market to collect fresh ingredients for the day: mackerel, bundles of fresh mint, pink bouquets of ginger flower, and loads of other local produce.

The soup is made from scratch each day. Heng Fook painstakingly debones each fish to make the broth, spicing it up with tamarind, chilli and other spices, while Choo dices eight different vegetables that add flavour and texture to each serving of laksa.

Their routine hasn’t changed in years except for 2018, when a local celebrity knocked them off their feet with an unexpected visit.

“Someone came and asked if we would be open for an interview. I had no idea who it was until the next day, when they said Axian was ready.

“When I saw him in front of our stall, I was so shocked,” she exclaims, adding that Heng Fook was similarly starstruck.

The Malaysian television host had come to do an episode on Air Itam as it was his hometown. After interviewing the siblings, the segment was given the title “The World’s Most Silent Assam Laksa”.

Siew Choo says she and her brother are happy to be running the stall as it is a tribute to their mum and dad.

“We all had really good relationships with our parents,” she says with a warm smile, sharing that they have six other siblings and that the entire family communicates with Heng Fook through sign language.

“My brother says he is always grateful for the business our father left him, so we have to take good care of it and treat it well.”

Bisu Laksa
Pekan Ayer Itam
11500 Air Itam, Penang

Business hours: 10.30am to 5pm, Wednesdays to Sundays