Blink and you might miss this ‘invisible’ warung

Blink and you might miss this ‘invisible’ warung

Village shop ‘Warung Bunian’ draws diners off the beaten path with communal makan hidang concept, and standout nasi lemak telur bungkus.

The nasi lemak bungkus at ‘Warung Bunian’ in Kampung Sungai Merab comes wrapped in a fluffy omelette, and a piece of fried salted fish. (Dinesh Kumar Maganathan @ FMT Lifestyle)
KAJANG:
When was the last time you took a drive with no real destination – just a vague recommendation, a pinned location on Waze, and the promise that somewhere at the end of a narrow road, there would be food worth the journey?

That’s exactly what a visit to “Warung Bunian” feels like. Tucked deep inside Kampung Sungai Merab, along the outskirt borders of Putrajaya and Kajang, the journey there pulls you away from the usual rhythm of Kajang town.

Surrounded by low hills and greenery, with scattered houses perched along the slopes, the setting feels removed from the noise and urgency of the city. It’s the kind of place where you can sit a little longer than intended, look out towards the hills, take in the stillness, and actually hear yourself think.

The roads get very narrow here, and if you’re not paying attention, you might drive right past it – and still not see it. The eatery’s actual name is Warung Tapak Sulaiman, but over time, it came to be known as Warung Bunian.

Warung Bunian gets its nickname for almost being hidden from view. (Dinesh Kumar Maganathan @ FMT Lifestyle)

In local folklore, orang bunian are unseen beings believed to inhabit forests and remote places. It’s an oddly fitting label. With its tucked-away location, the warung carries that same sense of mystery – as though it exists just slightly out of view, waiting to be discovered.

There’s history behind this calm, too. The warung traces its roots back nearly 30 years, when owner Juliza Adlan’s mother first set up a modest nasi lemak stall by the kerbside.

Juliza grew up helping at that roadside setup, long before it became what it is today. More than 15 years ago, the stall evolved into a full-fledged warung, but it never lost that grounded, homegrown spirit.

You still see it in the details: the wooden tables wrapped in old-school linoleum PVC sheets, slightly worn but familiar, the kind you’d find in many kampung homes and eateries of the past.

The food runs out very quickly here, so it’s best to come early. (Dinesh Kumar Maganathan @ FMT Lifestyle)

Early morning is when it feels most special. The air is cooler, fresher, and the warung slowly comes to life with the smell of kopi and coconut rice. It’s worth arriving early, before the crowd builds, to take it all in.

The nasi lemak telur bungkus is the standout. Wrapped in a thin layer of egg, it opens up to reveal fragrant rice paired with sambal that leans slightly sweet before the spiciness hits you – a great morning pick-me-up.

What sets this nasi lemak apart, though, is the inclusion of fried salted fish – a rare addition these days – bringing a deep, savoury punch that cuts through the richness of the dish.

The gulai, which varies depending on the day, brings a different kind of satisfaction. Thick, spiced, and slow-cooked, the gravy carries depth in every spoonful. Whether paired with chicken or beef, it’s rich without being overwhelming, the kind of dish that quietly anchors the meal.

The wooden tables and open space give ‘Warung Bunian’ a true kampung vibe. (Dinesh Kumar Maganathan @ FMT Lifestyle)

The warung adopts a makan hidang concept. Diners don’t choose from a menu, but instead pick from what is prepared for the day. Everyone is served the same spread. It’s a simple system that in its own way reinforces the communal, no-frills spirit of the place.

This eatery doesn’t try to stand out. It doesn’t need to. Its charm lies in how easily it blends into its surroundings – and how, for a brief moment, it lets you step away from everything else.

Sometimes, the best meals aren’t the loudest or the most visible. They’re the ones you almost miss.

Warung Bunian
Jalan Jamaludin, Kampung Sungai Merab,
43000 Kajang, Selangor

Business hours:
7.30am-2pm (Mondays to Thursdays)
7.30am-11am (Fridays to Sundays)

Contact: 017-381 2246

For location, click here.

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