It’s messy, loud, and unmistakably Malaysian. In many ways, it mirrors the kopitiam itself: a place where conversations stretch, plates are shared, and time slows down over kopi.
At Hock Kee Kopitiam, these two rituals now meet on the same table. A new menu folds the richness of musang king durian into familiar coffee shop staples, the result of a collaboration with D MasKing by DSR Taiko Berhad.
The idea is simple: to bring the fruit straight from the orchard into the kopitiam and, in doing so, reframe how Malaysians experience both.
For founder Nick Ng, this balance between tradition and change is intentional.
“Our kopitiam has always been about comfort and the taste of Malaysia,” he said. “Introducing musang king is not merely an addition; it’s about elevating a familiar experience with a premium touch.”
Start with the roti bakar. Golden, crisp, and familiar – until the first bite reveals a layer of durian kaya spread beneath the butter.
The kaya is richer and more custard-like than the usual version, with a natural sweetness that lingers longer on the palate. There’s a slight bitterness too, a reminder of the fruit itself, giving the toast a more rounded, indulgent finish without feeling over the top.
The drinks invite a bit more curiosity. The durian coffee, unexpectedly, is the more approachable of the two: smooth, mellow, with only a slight hint of the fruit. That works in its favour, as a coffee overwhelmed by durian might not appeal to everyone.
The durian teh tarik leans bolder, its aroma unmistakable, its frothy top carrying that familiar pull of teh tarik with an added depth that might divide opinion, but never lacks character.
“When I first heard about durian coffee and tea, I was very sceptical. It didn’t seem like a good combo. But when I tried it, it was so good. I knew I wanted it on our menu,” Ng shared during a recent signing of a memorandum of understanding.
Furthermore, dessert is where the menu finds its rhythm. The durian ice cream range, from soft serve to gelato and the classic stick, feels almost designed for sharing.
The gelato stands out for its dense, velvety texture, while the soft serve offers a lighter, more playful alternative. However, the durian flavour could be pushed a little further to better capture the fruit’s signature intensity.
Even the durian dark chocolate and chips lend themselves to passing around the table, the kind of small bites that spark conversation.
The chocolate, with its slight cocoa bitterness, tempers the richness of the durian, creating a balance that keeps each piece from feeling too heavy.
Whether you love the king of fruits or keep a cautious distance from it, one thing rings true for most Malaysians. It has a way of bringing people together, much like the kopitiam itself. Sparking lively gatherings around a table, familiar rituals, and conversations.
Bringing the two into the same space taps into something deeply ingrained – the instinct to share, to linger, to be present. And in that shared space, somewhere between nostalgia and novelty, the experience feels entirely Malaysia.
Follow Hock Kee Kopitiam on Instagram.