For Klang-born chef Joel Kirk, 36, Zaataru is his first restaurant. While he runs the eatery on the frontlines, it is backed by Syrian-born Ameer Alzalek of popular Leen’s Middle East Kitchen.
“So we had this interesting conversation about what Arab food would taste like if it was Japanese. I like to dabble with Japanese cuisine, so I thought that was an interesting challenge,” Kirk told FMT Lifestyle.
Even the interiors of the restaurant reflect this mix. A Japanese wooden sliding door at the entrance sits behind a curtain, while Moroccan-inspired colours and large tables hint at Levantine influences.
Kirk, who knew he wanted to be a chef from the age of 13, draws inspiration from his travels.
“In Arab food, they use more fatty content and smoky techniques. Japanese cuisine leans towards simplicity and subtle flavours. Both, though, respect ingredients and use seasonal vegetables thoughtfully,” he said.
The dishes here are mainly Levantine, but the components in each cleverly incorporate Japanese ingredients.
With just under 20 dishes on the menu, first-timers should begin with the picnic platter, a spread of Middle Eastern dips served with freshly baked bread.
The moutabal is made from eggplant cured in a soy sauce tsuyu base and fire-roasted before being blended into a creamy dip. Generously topped with crisp fried onions, its smokiness hits first, but the soy lends a deep umami and gentle sweetness.
The bright red muhammara, another Arab staple, is typically made from roasted capsicum but here, it’s infused with a Japanese pickled plum salsa. It was a clear favourite on the platter.
You’ll also find the classics: tahini; grape dibis, a thick molasses-like syrup; and of course, za’atar with olive oil.
Kirk encourages customers to dig in with their hands, to mix, match and make a bit of a mess.
He even shared a little secret: if you completely mix the tahini and grape dibis together, it transforms into something thick and creamy, tasting almost exactly like peanut butter. Suddenly, you’ve got dessert on your platter too.
Also, don’t miss the labneh with torched edamame, one of the first dishes created for Zaataru.
“Labneh has been popularised recently. It’s basically a strained yoghurt that’s very rich and creamy, yet slightly tangy. What makes this dish different is the Arab technique of smoking used. Usually, edamame is eaten fresh, steamed, but it’s rarely smoked,” he said.
While edamame on its own can sometimes feel plain, this was a revelation. Torching brings out a whole new depth of flavour. When paired with the creamy labneh, and finished with brown butter and pine nuts, it becomes subtly indulgent.
Classic hummus, and chickpea dip finished with roasted Japanese kombu oil is also a must-try.
And the mains continue the journey with more classic Arabic flavours. The lamb kofta and eggplant comes with shiso harissa and tzatziki.
Harissa is a North African chili paste, and here it’s brightened with shiso, a Japanese herb that gives it a subtle minty, almost citrusy aroma.
The kofta itself is incredibly juicy, the meaty richness of the lamb shining through in every bite, while the creamy tzatziki cuts through that richness.
The tiger prawns are pan-grilled and finished with za’atar butter and paprika. Crispy on the outside and tender inside, they taste quite fresh. Despite their deep red hue, they aren’t overwhelmingly spicy.
If you have any bread left from the platter, don’t miss dipping it into the pool of za’atar butter infused with shrimp juices.
There are two dessert options on the menu but the baklava sundae with peanut ice cream and caramel banana is just like it sounds – decadent.
If you’re open to trying fusion cuisine, Zaataru gives you the opportunity to walk on the wilder side, with flavours so diverse yet complementary, it will deliver a truly unforgettable dining experience.
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Zaataru
21-1, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000, Kuala Lumpur
Business Hours:
6pm-10.30pm (Monday-Wednesday)
12pm-3pm; 6pm-10.30pm (Thursday-Sunday)