NON – HALAL
Familiar and comforting, these dishes carry the memory of a city shaped by a very different rhythm and history. But what happens when that culture travels, settles, and slowly adapts?
That question led to Nine Dragon Char Chan Teng, an eatery that reflects the enduring presence of Hong Kong food culture in Malaysia.
Founded in 2017 by Kenny Low and his wife Christine Nah, the brand has since grown to eight branches nationwide – fulfilling a dream Low has carried since he was 18.
Low is clear about his mission: honour Hong Kong flavours without copying them wholesale.
“If we make the food 100% Hong Kong-style, many Malaysians won’t be used to it. But if we lean too much into local flavours, it stops being a ‘char chan teng’,” he said.
“We keep the soul, but adjust it slightly.”
That balance is evident from the moment you step inside. Retro décor, playful nods to Stephen Chow films, and menu items named after Hong Kong celebrities create a space steeped in pop-culture nostalgia.
Where else would you find a curry-fish-ball-and-pineapple-bun combo called “Andy Lau”?
Low’s inspiration is deeply personal. He grew up on a steady diet of Hong Kong films and TV dramas, and recalls a defining moment on “Grandmaster’s Cook-Off”, judged by actress Nancy Sit of “The God of Cookery” fame.
“When she tasted my dish and quoted the film – ‘It’s so delicious, what if I can never eat this again?’ – it stayed with me,” he said. “A childhood memory suddenly became part of my own journey.”
To him, Hong Kong culture still holds a quiet grip on Malaysian audiences, whether through YouTube and social media for the young, or timeless TVB dramas for older generations.
The menu walks the same careful tightrope. The classic pineapple bun, traditionally served warm with cold butter, appears with fillings like luncheon meat, cheese, or char siew.
Beef kuey teow – known in Hong Kong as beef chow fun – keeps its familiar flat noodles and tender meat, but carries a subtle spicy kick tailored to Malaysian palates.
The claypot chicken rice arrived sizzling, generously dressed with scallion oil and ginger paste. In Hong Kong, ginger is used sparingly; here, its boldness reflects local tastes.
Another standout is the tofu braised pork rice, cheekily nicknamed “A Man’s Romance”.
“In Hong Kong, it’s lighter,” Low explained. “Here, we added dark soy sauce and cili padi, so it’s spicier, but the soul remains very Hong Kong.”
For this writer, a Hong Kong native, encountering a “char chan teng” abroad was unexpectedly emotional. Back home, neon signs are fading, bamboo scaffolding is disappearing, and small neighbourhood shops are slowly being replaced by large chains.
Seeing fragments of that culture preserved overseas feels both comforting and poignant.
Places like Nine Dragon show that cultural preservation doesn’t mean freezing something in time. By adapting to local tastes, Hong Kong food in Malaysia stays alive – lived-in rather than archived.
It’s proof that cultural exchange is never one-way, but an ongoing conversation shaped by memory, flavour, and the realities of a new home.
Follow Nine Dragon Char Chan Teng on Facebook.
Scarlett Zheng is an undergraduate at the University of Hong Kong, and an intern at FMT.