[NON HALAL]
If you happen to be in Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur, and are looking for a more unusual dining experience, you would do well to check out this hidden restaurant called Atelier Binchotan.
Getting a table, however, might be tricky as this place is often booked out in advance. You see, Atelier Binchotan only has about a dozen or so seats arranged around a BBQ grill not much bigger than what you would find at your roadside satay stall. So make your reservations!
The specialty here lies within its name: binchotan is a type of charcoal made from ubame oak from Japan. It is known for its high carbon and low ash content, making it burn hotter and longer than regular charcoal, hence creating a superior end product.
The menu is a simple single-page affair with just slightly over a dozen choices under the food category, about the same number of options for beverages, and three desserts. This might actually be a plus point, as it’s better to focus on one’s top offerings instead of providing an endless selection, isn’t it?
For starters, give the kaya toast a try. Priced at RM50 for two pieces, it’s probably a tad more than what Malaysians are used to paying for roti bakar!
What you get here is shredded frozen foie gras on toasted brioche – a very unique take on delivering the richness of goose liver, and one that works incredibly well. You do have to chomp it down before the liver melts, though.
Also perfect for whetting your appetite are the mini sweet peppers served with anchovy emulsion (RM40). The sweetness of these vibrantly coloured peppers contrasts well with the tangy, salty flavour of the accompanying sauce. Delicious.
Meanwhile, the mini burger (RM18, the cheapest savoury item on the menu) is likely to be a crowd favourite. A thick, juicy pork patty served with sauce gribiche – for the uninitiated, a cold egg concoction popular in French cuisine – each member of your party would do well to order his or her own, as nobody will want to share!
If you DO wish to share, there’s also the smoked Hokkaido scallop (RM110), which, as it turns out, comprises one giant scallop divided into several slices with fermented white asparagus: rich and satisfying.
Then there’s the octopus (RM90), which comes with jalapeno and coriander sauce, and is grilled to the perfect texture.
With the entrees covered, it’s time to move on to the mains!
The marble goby (RM90) consists of three pieces of the fish that’s usually steamed in Chinese restaurants, except here it’s grilled and served with a white-wine reduction, sugar peas, and ikura (red caviar).
Some may find this dish to be just satisfactory – perhaps the simple method of steaming retains more of the fish’s natural texture and sweetness – but older folks might say it’s a waste of a perfectly good goby, and they’d not be entirely wrong.
Happily, you’ll likely find the pork cheek with burnt onion and chestnut puree (RM65) to be an absolute delight. With a great texture and taste profile that’s subtle and exquisite, this non-halal dish is, on the whole, very enjoyable.
For an even more unusual offering, try the 14-day aged duck breast (RM70), which is served with parsnips, macadamia nuts, and dark chocolate. Yes, you read right: kudos to whoever discovered this combination, which works surprisingly well indeed.
No meal is complete without dessert, and here you can sink your sweet teeth into melon or goat-cheese(!) ice cream (priced at RM20 each), and/or the pistachio and blackberry tart (RM15).
The tart has a super-light crust that melts in your mouth, while the goat-cheese ice cream is as weird as it sounds, albeit not in a bad way. The melon, too, provides an appropriately sweet and creamy ending.
Owing to the limited capacity, there’s a time limit on how long diners can stay at Atelier Binchotan. But rest assured, you will continue to discuss what you’ve just devoured long after you’ve left this place, asking the all-important question: “When can we come back again?”
Find out more about Atelier Binchotan via its Instagram profile.
Atelier Binchotan (non-halal)
28, Jalan 2/109e,
Taman Desa Business Park,
58100 Kuala Lumpur
Contact: 017-788 9096
Read the original article here. Trying to influence your cravings since 2005, Kar Yeong was Guest Judge on Versus 1001 Rasa Baba’s 2018, R.AGE Food Fight Judge 2015 and NTV7 Foodie Blogger 2014. To read more about Kar Yeong’s food journeys, visit his blog at KYspeaks.com.