Older than Merdeka and dating back to a time when the Japanese still roamed Penang, Mahboobin’s father’s 80-year-old mee goreng recipe is as rich in flavour as it is in history.

A fresh, hot plate of Bangkok Lane’s Mee Goreng is guaranteed to turn the head and tantalise the tastebuds of any mee goreng fanatic.

But what’s even more incredible is the story behind this nondescript stall.

Many years ago, Mahboobin’s father started selling his first plates of mee goreng off a roadside cart in Bangkok Lane. But when the British returned after the war, he had to move the business.

Eventually, Mahboobin’s father found a permanent spot at the junction of Burma Road and Bangkok Lane, close to where he first parked his roadside cart.

In a corner stall of Seng Lee Café, which was then a newly built coffee shop, Bangkok Lane Mee Goreng remained in the heart of Pulau Tikus.

And with a legacy of three generations, the stall has been passed on from father to son.

Many long-time customers still make weekly visits to the coffee shop and apart from looking forward to the iconic plate of noodles, they come looking for the man behind the wok.

“I used to help my father every day after school, and in 1970, I took over the stall,” says Mahboobin, who has been frying up noodles at the stall since the tender age of 15.

Over the years, Mahboobin has come to recognise the regulars and immediately recalls each customer’s unique order.

In a flash, regulars are greeted with their perfect mee goreng, without having to say a word.

Apart from being the master of mee goreng, Mahboobin is also a master at languages. The stall is filled with much laughter and his voice, which can be heard throughout the coffee shop, reveals how happy he is to be chatting away with customers from all backgrounds in Hokkien, English and Malay.

Mahboobin picked up Hokkien over the years, from listening and talking to customers and the owners of the coffee shop.

He reveals that he is glad he can speak Hokkien as it has allowed him to develop relationships with his customers and provide fast service.

“Everyone laughs, it’s always a good conversation and I treat them as friends,” he smiles.

However, all the years of standing for long hours at the stove have caught up with Mahboobin and his legs can no longer take the demands of the stall.

But he isn’t the least bit worried as he has handed the spatula over to his son, Sabik Ahamed.

Reflecting generations of skill and experience passed down from his father, Sabik expertly spins the springy noodles and mee hoon in the hot wok and deftly envelopes them in a mixture of three mouth-watering gravies and delicious trimmings.

“All the sauces are made fresh every morning between 4am and 5am, during which I come in to help,” Mahboobin tells FMT, adding that he personally tastes each sauce to make sure the flavours remain true to how they were 80 years ago.

With the blend of sauces complementing each other, every bite is infused with spicy kicks of sweet and savoury goodness.

Generous helpings of fresh potatoes, tofu, squid and bean sprouts are also thrown into the blazing wok.

Then, with a few more MasterChef-worthy spins, piping hot mee goreng in all its glory is scooped onto a plate and ready to serve.

The steaming hot dish is then crowned with freshly cut lettuce and half a lime for customers to squeeze over the top if they so prefer.

Mee goreng really doesn’t get any better than this. So, customers ought to prepare their tastebuds and feel their senses ignite as these velvety noodles invade the mouth.

Without feeling too oily, the sweet, tangy and vibrant noodles are springy to the bite while the freshly cut lettuce and bean sprouts add a refreshing crunch to the ensemble.

Fresh greens contrast with the soft texture of the spongy tofu and creamy potatoes, and, almost like a hidden gem, the chewy squid is a real treat in this dish as it provides a juicy bite.

The melding of the different elements and variety of sauces creates a harmonious balance that makes this dish both texture and flavour central.

Although Bangkok Lane’s mee goreng is a historic relic in Penang, a branch has been set up by his brother in Selangor’s USJ so one can still enjoy this Penang-style favourite outside of the foodie haven.

For Penangites, though, there is only one special place to go to for a mouthwatering plate of noodles.

“There are no duplicates. There is only one original Bangkok Lane Mee Goreng,” affirms Mahboobin proudly.

And Mahboobin does have a point.

With eight decades of experience and the time spent honing the necessary skills to perfect his family’s mee goreng recipe, it is no wonder that the dishes have stood the test of time and will continue to do so for generations to come.

Bangkok Lane Mee Goreng
280 Jalan Burma
10350 George Town
Pulau Pinang

Operating hours: Daily: 8am-6pm, except Monday