It has been 65 years since the Union Jack was lowered at Dataran Merdeka and cries of “Merdeka! Merdeka! Merdeka!” were heard, heralding a new chapter for this nation.
Since then, many things have undoubtedly happened – both good and bad – but Merdeka is an opportune time to look back on this country’s journey towards independence, so Malaysians do not take for granted the meaning of that word.
In conjunction with Merdeka, FMT has chosen five locations in Penang with rich histories that reflect Malaysia’s unique identity as a melting pot of cultures.
1. Fort Cornwallis
Francis Light’s occupation of Penang in the 18th century marked the beginning of the British colonisation of Malaya. A signboard at the fort today claims this was where Light first set foot in Penang in July 1786, and by most accounts he is known as the founder of the state (though some have debated this).
After his arrival, Light constructed the fort in George Town and named it after Charles Cornwallis, the then governor-general of Bengal. It was originally built with nibong palm trunks, and subsequently with stones.
One of the highlights here today is the Seri Rambai cannon, which purportedly bore the Dutch East India Company symbol and was initially gifted to the sultan of Johor. Some reports say it was seized by the sultanate of Aceh – others say the Portuguese did it – before it ended up in the hands of the British, who brought it to Penang.
The notice board at the fort itself claims the cannon was lost at sea and “surfaced from the sea on its own”, which proves that history itself can be muddled with myths and mystery.
2. Chew Jetty
The Chew Jetty is part of the clan jetties in Weld Quay, George Town, that were established in the 19th century by Chinese immigrants who made their way to Malaya in search of a better life.
Apart from the Chew clan, others that built jetties and settled in the area include the Lee and Yeoh clans.
At the Chew Jetty, wooden houses on stilts – relics from the past – still exist. Certain members of the clan also reside here, some operating businesses selling ice cream and souvenir items.
As one clan member told FMT last year: “The minute you step inside the Chew Jetty, you’re immediately stepping into the front door of the entire Chew clan’s house.”
3. Armenian Street
Despite being a weekday morning, Armenian Street in Georgetown can be seen bustling with people. The narrow street is lined with quaint shophouses, where cafés and businesses selling souvenirs, among other things, operate.
The street was initially called Malay Lane owing to early Malay settlement in the area; but later, in the 19th century, it became known as Armenian Street thanks to the arrival of traders from that region, who contributed to the development of Penang.
Among these newcomers were the Sarkies brothers, who established the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, and Dr Thaddeus Avetoom, a Calcutta-born Armenian physician who founded Georgetown Dispensary.
4. Kapitan Keling Mosque
The Kapitan Keling Mosque, or Masjid Kapitan Keling, is a stunning sight in George Town – a grand structure with beautiful domes and a prominent minaret.
Built in the 19th century, the name of the mosque is attributed to one Cauder Merican, a leader among the Indian-Muslim community who was also known as Kapitan Keling.
The mosque is said to have been a focal point and symbolic identity for members of that community, who were largely merchants, traders, and labourers.
Kapitan Keling Mosque is part of Penang’s “Street of Harmony”, where three other places of worship of different religions can be found within close proximity: St George’s Church, the Goddess of Mercy temple, and Sri Mahamariamman temple.
5. Pinang Peranakan Mansion
The Pinang Peranakan Mansion is a museum with more than 1,000 pieces of traditional and cultural artefacts. With its famed green walls, it is a striking sight on Church Street in George Town.
Built in the 19th century, the building once served as a residence to Chung Keng Kwee, the founder of Taiping and Kapitan Cina of Perak. However, in the 1990s, it was bought over by property developer and antiques collector Peter Soon, and subsequently refurbished.
The Chinese Peranakans, or Baba Nyonyas, are a unique group who have adopted the ways of the local Malays and are known for the hybrid culture evident in their food and attire.
Touring the museum is a delightful step back into time that offers visitors a glimpse into the home of a wealthy Peranakan back then – from the grand dining halls, to the opulent bridal wedding room.