[NON-HALAL]
Indeed, many of the country’s best eateries are located far off the beaten track, with only the most dedicated wandering gourmands willing to seek them out.
Should you count yourself to be a member of this group, then you should take an hour’s drive out of the city and head to rural Banting instead.
Located in this part of Selangor is a restaurant that appears to be little more than a shack. Despite this, it draws customers from far and wide.
Reaching Restoran Bukit Jugra is something of an adventure in itself, as you will have to navigate through narrow village roads flanked by endless plantations.
With few signboards pointing you towards the restaurant, it is easy to get lost. Tip: this place can be found on Waze by searching for “Beggar’s Chicken Banting”.
You will know you have found the right place once you come across a Chinese temple by the road with the restaurant across from it.
Restoran Bukit Jugra is a wooden shack built atop a muddy marsh, with the dining area providing a full view of mudskippers and crabs.
Depending on what time you arrive, you may be able to catch the tides of Sungai Langat coming in or pulling away.
Do be warned that if you come here without a prior reservation, you will be turned away – reservations are required here.
Why? Because this establishment is renowned for its Beggar’s Chicken, a Chinese peasant dish turned delicacy that requires substantial preparation beforehand.
According to one legend, the dish was originally created by a beggar who lacked proper utensils or pots to cook a chicken.
He therefore wrapped it in leaves, packed clay around it, and placed it into a hole with a fire burning within before burying it.
Whether this is fact or otherwise, the restaurant cooks its chickens this way and has grown famous because of it.
The eatery itself is the definition of no-frills, with an almost spartan appearance, but remains a comfortable dining spot regardless.
Given its isolated location, there is a certain rustic feel that would provide a pleasant change of scenery for most urban visitors.
If you are worried about being feasted upon by mosquitoes, fear not! Mosquito coils can be found burning under your table at all times.
And if you need assurance about the restaurant’s famed fare, check out the wall of newspaper cuttings, some dating back decades.
By all accounts, Restoran Bukit Jugra has been around for nearly five decades now, and the place was originally a charcoal factory.
With all the excess charcoal lying around, some of it was used to prepare the Beggar’s Chicken, which eventually became a product more in demand than the charcoal itself.
As mentioned, bookings are to be made days beforehand, with only certain dishes such as omelettes and vegetables available for on-the-spot ordering.
But no one comes here just for those. The Beggar’s Chicken is clearly the highlight here, and is prepared to coincide with your arrival.
This ensures that once the dish is served, the meat will still be piping hot and tender, its flavours at their strongest.
The chicken tastes nothing short of heavenly, with a strong flavour courtesy of the many herbs stuffed into its crevices.
For maximum enjoyment, cut yourself a slice and eat it with rice and some garlic and cili padi. Amazing!
Besides fowl, pork and mutton are also prepared and served in the same manner. The Beggar’s Pig Leg is a favourite for some patrons.
Deliciously fatty, the meat falls off the bone easily and melts in the mouth.
Cholesterol be damned! More often than not, this dish will be picked clean by everyone at the table in no time at all.
Instead of white rice, consider enjoying your meat with glutinous rice, sticky and chewy the way it ought to be.
No Chinese feast would be complete without a good soup, and the stomach soup is the perfect tummy-pleaser indeed.
Loaded with pepper, this dish packs quite a punch, and is laden with generous bits of meat for your enjoyment.
Meanwhile, the veggie options here are dependent on what the restaurant is stocked with at the time of your visit.
All in all, this place is worth visiting for the experience and for its mouthwatering offerings. Again, remember to make your reservations beforehand to avoid being turned away!
Restoran Bukit Jugra (non-halal)
Kampung Permatang Pasir,
Bukit Jugra,
42700 Banting, Selangor
Business hours: 1pm-8pm (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays)
Contact: 03-3120 2515 (Ms Chua)