It has certainly earned this title, given the many age-old restaurants, bakeries, kopitiam, cafés and hawker stalls here that sell delicious delicacies and tasty treats.
In fact, it’s not unheard of for foodies from all over Malaysia, and even beyond, to flock to Ipoh just to fill their tummies.
One such establishment that continues to draw crowds is a 1950s coffee shop called Kedai Kopi Yong Suan. This old-school eatery is hard to miss, considering the line of customers that stretches all the way out onto the walkway and, sometimes, even the road.
What on earth could be here that lures such a crowd? As it turns out, it is an addictive substance that brings out hungry diners in droves.
Some might remember the news from July last year involving a helicopter that made an unauthorised landing on Padang Ipoh to pick up 36 packs of nasi kandar.
Well, as it turns out, the specific nasi kandar picked up by that helicopter was the very same that is sold at Yong Suan.
On paper, the name of the stall is Nasi Kandar Ayam Merah, but it is more popularly known by locals and tourists alike as “nasi ganja”.
“Ganja”, of course, popularly refers to cannabis or hemp. But fret not: nasi ganja is very much free of illegal substances – unless you count curry, that is!
It gets its peculiar name from just how addictive this nasi kandar is, in terms of its myriad flavours, tastes, colours and textures.
The business started in 1957 after current stall owner Mohd Nihmathullah Syed Mustafa’s grandfather, Kassim Mohamad, moved to Malaya from Tamil Nadu.
Back then, heavy copper pots were used to cook the rice that would be served to customers… and those same pots are actually still in use today!
Despite receiving offers to branch out into a franchise, Nihmathullah seems content to stay put, dishing out hot, piping plates of nasi ganja day after day.
So, what makes the food here so special? It’s hard to put your finger on it, but most diners attribute it to the coconut sambal that accompanies the rice and spiced fried chicken.
Thanks to the use of grated coconut, the rice is given a savoury-sweet taste which, when combined with a flood of curry, makes for a messy but absolutely scrumptious meal.
While it is common to eat the nasi kandar just with a side of fried chicken, many swear by the stall’s rendang, as well as the beef curry, fried fish, and vegetables.
During FMT’s visit, a plate of nasi ganja consisted of fragrant steamed white rice, splashes of curry, some coconut chutney, a piece of fried chicken, half a salted egg, and some acar.
The chicken was somewhat dry and may not be to everyone’s liking, but the curry-drenched rice was a standout, especially when mixed with chunks of savoury salted egg.
Given the generous portions, it is astounding that it cost just RM6.40 – a far cry from the exorbitant prices seen in the Klang Valley.
According to some folks, when the stall first opened, you could get a full meal for RM1.20 per plate. A sign of the times, truly.
There is also the popular belief that one will feel sleepy after gorging on nasi ganja. Again, no narcotics here – it’s likely the sign of a filling and satisfying meal.
Should you wish to pay Yong Suan a visit for lunch, do consider the wait time. Tables are limited and, despite the 30-minute restriction placed on all dining parties, it may take a while before one is freed up for you.
Alternatively, opt for a takeaway, although do note that the line for this is just as long as the one for dine-ins. Either way, be prepared to wait!
On a side note, check out the cendol stalls adjacent to the coffee shop. Durian cendol after nasi ganja? Perfection!
Restoran Nasi Kandar Ayam Merah (Nasi Ganja) @ Kedai Kopi Yong Suan
2, Jalan Yang Kalsom,
Taman Jubilee,
30250 Ipoh, Perak
Business hours: 9.00am-5.00pm daily
Contact: 016-595 9673