Gooddam, a modern Italian restaurant with Asian and, specifically, Malaysian influences, is a refreshing addition to the Petaling Jaya food scene, nestled in the lush, airy lifestyle haven that is The HUB SS2.
The restaurant’s name derives from a few good things combined: it was founded by two good friends, Daniel Yap and Miki Lie, who had the good intention of building a wholesome business that serves good food.
Apart from a shared love for the industry, they delight in exclaiming catchy phrases such as “gooddam!” while experiencing something truly extraordinary.
In 2014, Yap had the chance to join a culinary programme in Italy for a year. From there, he cut his teeth at Piccolo Lago, a two-Michelin-star establishment in the northern province of Piemonte, studying Italian cooking methods, ingredients, and food culture under the tutelage of chef-owners Marco Sacco, Paulo Griffa, and Mattia Rancati.
Subsequently he travelled to neighbouring regions such as Lombardy and Veneto Fruili-Venezia Guilia, and then down towards Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Lazio, and parts of Europe.
Yap takes pride in adopting the basic principles of Italian cooking – where culinary technicality is juxtaposed with the simplicity of fresh ingredients – while simultaneously drawing on his roots.
“I am a Malaysian chef cooking regional Italian cuisine,” he said. “Every seasonal menu is focused on different parts of the Italian regions, allowing guests to embark on a journey just as I did.”
When Yap returned to Malaysia, he was determined to bring home what he experienced abroad. He joined forces with Lie and another friend to conduct pop-up dining experiences in establishments around Kuala Lumpur.
The success of Pop-Up Dining KL led to the launch of Gooddam in late 2018. Lie oversees operations and front of house, while Yap is in charge of the kitchen and menu creation.
Early on, Yap and his team crafted a menu around the bestselling dishes from Pop-Up Dining KL, but the response was lukewarm as diners couldn’t put their finger on the type of Italian cuisine they were being served.
With many tweaks to the menu, including countless trial and error, they fine-tuned their fare to what it is today.
“We would have frequent conversations with our guests. It is a constant balancing act of achieving a flavour profile that is authentically Italian, with subtle local flavours that our guests are familiar with.”
As a result, diners can enjoy an onsen egg with Zuppa di Fagioli – a soup made of creamy cannellini beans; or dark chocolate ice cream alongside grappa-braised ciku.
Gooddam serves lunch and dinner set courses, including the incredible La Sbroscia, a traditional fish soup originating from Lake Bolsena in central Italy; and cinghiale or wild-boar ravioli, a Tuscany delicacy with modern Asian influences.
The wine list draws on a wealth of different regions, too. Signatures include the Chianti from Tuscany, or the mellow Nebbiolo from the Piedmont region. The Amarone is a rich, dry red wine from Veneto in the south… and don’t forget the Italian “Champagne”, Prosecco!
Yap enjoys exploring combinations of sweet and savoury in a dish – a “delicate layering of Italian elements with Asian ingredients”. This is evident in offerings such as sweet panzanella, inspired by a Tuscan bread salad.
Other popular creations include the carbonara and passionfruit tartlet, liver mousse, and chocolate bonbon.
During the pandemic, one of his chefs was particularly eager to learn how to make pasta by hand. Together, they created pastas from various regions and launched a takeaway menu – a concept that has flourished to the point that Gooddam will be opening a restaurant serving handmade pasta by the end of the year.
“If we can make something ourselves, we do – not just the pastas, but pickles, bread, cured seafood, ferments, even rum,” Yap shared. He takes pride in incorporating local produce such as Bidor ducks, local asparagus, cordyceps, Sarawak pepper, and kelulut honey to elevate regional Italian dishes.
Learn more about Gooddam via its website and Facebook profile.
Gooddam
Lot B-G-07, The HUB SS2,
19 Sentral, Jalan Harapan,
Seksyen 19, Petaling Jaya, Selangor
This article was written by Theri Burhan for Set the Tables. Set the Tables is positioned to inspire and educate those in the industry as well as the aspiring reader who dreams of a future in the food business, and maybe even the merely curious tantalised by the vast and irresistible universe of food and drink. Follow them on Instagram.