Chetti Melaka, guardians of Southeast Asia’s oldest Hindu temple

Chetti Melaka, guardians of Southeast Asia’s oldest Hindu temple

This unique Indian Peranakan community, who also founded the Sri Poyatha Moorthi Temple in Melaka, has over 500 years of history.

MELAKA CHETTI
The Chetti Melaka are an Indian Peranakan community in Malaysia known for their unique cultural practices. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)
MELAKA CITY:
There is only one village of its kind – Kampung Chetti in Melaka. The Chettis, meaning “traders”, are Melaka-born Hindus, a unique Indian Peranakan community descended from Tamil merchants who settled here centuries ago.

Over time, they adopted elements of the various cultures they married into, such as the Orang Laut, Malays, Chinese, Javanese and others, making them distinctly different from the wider Tamil community in the country.

Their earliest settlement was in Campon Chelim (Kampung Keling), before they were granted several land titles and relocated to the present Kampung Chetti on Jalan Gajah Berang.

The two unmistakable white elephant heads on the pillars at the village entrance pay homage to this name.

FMT Lifestyle visited the home of K Suppiah Pillay, 76, a proud Kampung Chetti native, to learn more about the village’s rich cultural roots.

MELAKA CHETTI
K Suppiah Pillay, whose grandfather came from Kanchipuram, India, was raised in Kampung Chetti on Jalan Gajah Berang. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

“I was born in this village. My grandfather came from Kanchipuram, India. He travelled by ship to sell herbal goods, like spices, along the Straits of Malacca.

“Later, he travelled to Sumatra, Indonesia, as many Javanese people used coconut milk and curry spices in their cooking,” Suppiah shared.

“When he came back here, he stopped at the place with the red building called Bukit Melaka (Bukit St Paul).”

Though many here no longer speak the Tamil language, they have adopted multicultural influences while preserving their Hindu roots. For instance, they are known to embrace interfaith harmony.

Even in Suppiah’s home, you’ll find deities from different religions besides Hinduism.

MELAKA CHETTI
The village is easily identified by the white elephant heads at the entrance near the Shivan temple. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

“We can pray to our deities like Amman or Ganesha, and we can also pray to Chinese gods, or go to a mosque. This is how our generation prays.

“Even when it comes to marriage today, it doesn’t have to be a Chetti marrying a Chetti. It’s muhibbah,” he said.

Deepavali in Kampung Chetti is a unique celebration that lights up a 500-year-old Peranakan heritage.

“We start with 10 days of prayers at the temple, and each day there’s a charity offering of food. Then comes the celebration itself,” Suppiah said.

Interestingly, they don’t observe the traditional oil bath like most Indian families do in Malaysia.

Their Deepavali customs include visiting the village’s Shivan Temple, preparing traditional dishes like pulut tekan, and dressing in their distinct traditional attire – kain pelikat, baju jippa, and a thalappa or thoppi, a form of headgear.

Sri Poyatha Moorthi Temple in Melaka is the oldest functioning Hindu temple in Southeast Asia. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

“All the family’s new clothes are placed on a tray at our ancestral altar. We pray and ask for good health and prosperity. Only after the prayers do we wear the clothes,” Suppiah added.

Although many have relocated, the village is still home to more than 50 Chetti families, who remain close-knit especially during Deepavali and other community events.

“If there’s a wedding or a funeral, the whole village will come to help, no invitation needed. So for Deepavali, we have visitors until late at night.”

The Chetti community has also made significant contributions to Hindu temples in Melaka, with 10 temples under their care. The most notable is the Sri Poyatha Moorthi Temple, the oldest functioning Hindu temple in Southeast Asia at over 240 years.

Built in 1781 during the Dutch regime, the temple belongs to the Chetti community. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

Located on Jalan Tukang Emas (Harmony Street), a short walk from Jonker Street, the temple was built by Thavinayagar Chitty, the leader of the Chetti people.

“We acquired this land from the Dutch regime to build a temple for the whole community to come together to pray,” said Rishi Pillay, one of the temple’s committee members.

“We have not touched the structure that was built during our forefathers’ time. The only thing that has changed is the colour.”

Even the relatively newer Nyonya-style tiles in the temple are over 100 years old. The temple began with just one Vinayagar deity, and more were added over time.

Every day, tourists visit the centuries-old temple, curious to explore a structure with such national heritage. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

This historic house of worship sees many tourists dropping by for a visit, even on a quiet Monday morning.

“Hindus are tolerant of anyone coming in either to seek blessings or to see the structure, as long as you respect our culture and religion,” Rishi noted.

Although the Chettis are a minority in the country, this Deepavali offers Malaysians a chance to learn from them the importance of preserving culture and fostering unity.

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