‘Balance, simplicity, respect’: infusing philosophy into the art of sushi

‘Balance, simplicity, respect’: infusing philosophy into the art of sushi

At Japan Expo Malaysia 2025, cuisine ambassador Makoto Saito Sam speaks on the principles and discipline behind sushi making.

INTERVIEW SAM - SUSHI OWNER - KLCC
Chef Makoto Saito Sam sharing his culinary journey and insights on sushi craftsmanship at Japan Expo Malaysia 2025. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)
KUALA LUMPUR:
“Sushi is like a blind date.”

These were the words of chef Makoto Saito Sam, official goodwill ambassador for Japanese cuisine, uttered before a quiet, attentive crowd during a sushi showcase at Japan Expo Malaysia 2025.

Held for three days at the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, the annual event celebrating all things Japan returned last weekend with over 70,000 visitors, drawing in fans of cosplay, J-pop, tech and culture.

At the heart of it all was Sam’s omakase talk and sushi-making session, which offered a rare, introspective moment amidst the buzz and pageantry of fandoms and pop performances.

Sam, who has lived in Kuala Lumpur for 10 years, runs two celebrated restaurants in KL – Sushi Hibiki at Four Seasons and Sakana Japanese Dining in KLCC.

While both are acclaimed for their quality and authenticity, Sakana is noteworthy in that it uses no pork, lard, or alcohol-based ingredients like sake or mirin. The goal? To make sushi truly accessible to Malaysian gourmands.

“It’s not halal-certified,” he acknowledged, “but many of my daughter’s friends would ask if they could bring their Muslim friends to dine with us.

“That made me think – I wanted to create a space where everyone could enjoy real Japanese food together.”

INTERVIEW SAM - SUSHI OWNER - KLCC
Salmon and tuna nigiri sushi, made fresh by the hands of a master. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

The result is a menu that pushes the boundaries of technique without compromising on integrity.

“It was a huge challenge. We had to recreate flavours that usually come from alcohol using soy, dashi, and even some local elements. But it worked.”

He revealed that he hadn’t set out to open a restaurant in Malaysia. But when the right team came along – “good customers, good staff, a good designer, even a good accountant” – he grabbed the opportunity.

Sam spent his first three years in Tokyo’s kitchens washing dishes. He spent the next 17 years cooking rice.

“Rice is the soul of sushi,” he told the crowd. “It looks simple, but it’s the hardest part. Every batch is different, as the weather, humidity, even your hand temperature matters.

“It’s about mastering the rice and yourself.”

That attitude carries into everything he does. “Even washing the toilet is part of being a sushi chef,” he quipped, to laughter and nods from the audience. “It’s all about presence and discipline.”

INTERVIEW SAM - SUSHI OWNER - KLCC
For Sam, Japanese food isn’t just about flavour – it’s about balance, patience, and the unseen connection between chef and diner. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

Despite the global popularity of sushi, Sam believes its spirit remains deeply personal. “If a sushi chef has no soul, you can taste it. Even if it looks perfect, it won’t connect. The personality of the chef enters the sushi.

“That’s why I say it’s like a blind date – because you feel it.”

As the conversation shifted to modern challenges, he addressed the rise of automation in sushi chains. “Machines can shape the rice, yes. But sushi is still about human hands. The pressure and the feel can’t be automated. It’s subtle.”

He also talked about viral trends like sushi cakes, nasi lemak sushi, and Chinese-style crispy rice rolls. “I personally wouldn’t serve those,” he said, “but I understand. People are creative. Food evolves.

“But don’t forget the fundamentals, which are balance, simplicity, and respect.”

For Sam, evolution is natural. “Ramen came from China. Curry rice was inspired by India. Tempura has Portuguese roots. Japanese cuisine has always adapted. What matters is how you carry it forward.”

Still, the job is no walk in the park. He noted how sushi chefs were once seen as low-status in Japan, associated with nightlife and gambling. “That’s changed, slowly. But it’s still a tough profession, especially for women.”

INTERVIEW SAM - SUSHI OWNER - KLCC
Visitors queuing to get their fill of freshly prepared sushi. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

Even today, few women enter the field, but Sam is hopeful. “Yes, you sacrifice your nails, your mascara, your weekends. But if you’re serious, go for it. There’s space for you now.”

As the crowd listened, Sam’s message resonated: Japanese food isn’t just about flavour – it’s about balance, patience, and the unseen connection between chef and diner.

“Sushi is subtle,” he concluded. “It doesn’t overwhelm. It’s like speaking softly, but with meaning.”

And just like that, in a hall filled with colour and noise, Chef Sam delivered the quietest, and perhaps most powerful, performance of them all.

Stay current - Follow FMT on WhatsApp, Google news and Telegram

Subscribe to our newsletter and get news delivered to your mailbox.