These days, traditional clothing once mostly popular in East Malaysia is gaining ground among young people in the peninsula. This was certainly evident during the Borneo Native Festival at Pasar Seni here last month, which saw many visitors donning traditional Sabah and Sarawak clothing combined with modern styles.
For 59-year-old Sarah Sanapan from Sabah, however, the increasing variety of modern styles is a little worrying. The traditional tailor strives to maintain the authenticity of each of her designs, especially Kadazan, Dusun, Murut and Rungus (KDMR) clothing, so it does not become lost over time.
“I am afraid that, amidst rapid modernisation, traditional clothing is starting to lose its touch of authenticity,” she told Bernama at the festival, which ran from May 22-24.
With over 20 years of experience in sewing traditional KDMR clothing, the Bisaya woman said tailors such as herself need to play the role of “cultural ambassador” by advising customers to maintain the authenticity of heritage attire.
Sarah noted that while Sabah’s traditional garments vary according to tribes and regions, the Sinipak Dusun Tindal shirt from Kota Belud is among the most complicated and time-consuming to complete.
“Finishing one set of these shirts takes five days because it requires precision when sewing the para-para (sleeves), siling (golden lace), and beads,” she explained.
But all this effort is worth it: in terms of sales, the Dusun Tindal shirt is one of the most popular, especially among native Sabahans in the peninsula, as well as foreign tourists and cultural dancers.
Asked about the easiest outfit to complete, Sarah cited the Kadazan Penampang shirt: “I can finish five suits within a day,” she said.
‘Cultural bridge’
Also sharing on the importance of authenticity was Catherine Eric, a 57-year-old from Sarawak. The Iban tailor is concerned that incorporating too many modern elements into heritage attire will dilute the artistry and meaning inherent in each garment.
While Catherine receives many orders for traditional Bidayuh clothing, she said finishing each outfit takes time because the lis (golden lace) needs to be sewn carefully. “It usually takes me two to three days to complete a set of Bidayuh clothes,” she noted.
She said a pair of Bidayuh women’s clothes without any ornaments can cost between RM250 and RM450. Complete with ornaments such as a scarf, belt, bracelets and anklets, a full set could go for RM1,500.
Both Sarah and Catherine agree that events like BNF act as a “cultural bridge” that introduces the rich traditions and creations of East Malaysia to the various communities in peninsular Malaysia, as well as foreign tourists.