In Kampung Melayu Subang here, Supaat Basir and Normala Said start their annual tradition of selling lemang, catering to customers old and new who have been flocking to their stall since 1995.
Fondly known as Paat and Emma, the husband and wife – who sell nasi lemak and Thai delicacies on other days – only offer their lemang three times a year: during Ramadan, Syawal, and the Hari Raya Haji season.
For the uninitiated, lemang is a popular Malay dish usually enjoyed during festive seasons. It consists of rice mixed with coconut milk (santan), which is then packed into bamboo tubes and cooked over an open fire.
This savoury, smoky delight is often enjoyed with side dishes such as sambal or beef rendang.
Lemang Bonda Kg Subang may have started 30 years ago, but demand for Paat and Emma’s take on this festive treat is still going strong.
“We never thought we would go on for so long. We started making lemang just for our family members, but then people heard about us and placed orders,” Emma, 51, told FMT Lifestyle.
“Soon, we were making 500 sticks of lemang a day. This number has risen over the years: on the first night of Raya last year, we made 10,000!”
Most customers come for the stall’s lemang biasa, while lemang jagung or lemang pulut hitam are available on demand. Prices for their regular lemang range from RM13-RM20 depending on the size, while the corn and black glutinous rice varieties cost an extra RM2.
Lemang Bonda Kg Melayu Subang is a family-run affair, with Paat and Emma’s six children, as well as their spouses, helping out where they can. Every part of their lemang is made from scratch.
And while it is a traditional dish, Emma feels lemang holds a very special place in the hearts of modern foodies, particularly Malays and especially those of the younger generation.
“We are grateful for our regular customers – we have loyal patrons who still come after 10, 15 years. People like to buy our lemang to bring along when they travel out of state, to give to their friends and family members,” Emma shared.
They also cater for open houses, parties and hotels around the region, including Tropicana Golf Club here, to whom they have supplied lemang for the past seven years.
Their popularity means Paat, Emma and the family operate the stall non-stop during Hari Raya, with little time for celebrations of their own.
“It’s okay, we’re used to it – as long as we make people happy. We can celebrate on our own later,” Emma added cheerfully.
While business is currently doing well, she revealed it hasn’t always been a bed of roses. The pandemic was a particularly challenging time, as sales had to be halted after the Movement Control Order prevented bamboo suppliers from reaching them.
Another dramatic incident took place in 2022, when the date of Aidilfitri was proclaimed to be earlier than expected. Chaos ensued as people hurried to get their festive affairs in order.
Thankfully, Lemang Bonda Kg Melayu Subang successfully weathered these storms.
Emma also confided that her time at the helm might be drawing to a close: she is thinking about retiring and passing the business down to her children.
“We’ll see how things go after a year or two. Managing this shop for over 30 years has been tiring,” she said with a laugh.
“We hope, nevertheless, that people will keep enjoying our lemang. Many people have a lot of memories of this simple but delicious dish.”
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Lemang Bonda Kg Subang
Lot 3674, Jalan Bukit Badak,
Kampung Melayu Subang,
40150 Shah Alam, Selangor
For location, click here.