Yet, amidst this shift, one man remains devoted to a time-honoured craft.
Wan Azwade Ahmad, 47, is perhaps the only male tailor in Malaysia who still practises sulam goyang, a traditional embroidery technique that demands extraordinary skill, patience and precision.
For Wan, this isn’t just about stitching fabric – it’s about stitching history, ensuring this delicate art form doesn’t vanish into obscurity.
A native of Lunas, Kedah, Wan’s love for fashion began at the age of 19. Without formal training, he taught himself the basics of sewing, picking up techniques from village elders and refining his craft through trial and error.
“I first came across sulam goyang on the internet, but learning it without a mentor was difficult. Even with a strong foundation in sewing, mastering the technique on my own was a struggle,” he told Bernama recently.
His breakthrough came in 2021 when he was invited to attend a two-week course organised by Kraftangan Malaysia in Kepala Batas, Penang. There, he deepened his knowledge, honed his skills, and received formal certification – earning recognition as the only male tailor in Malaysia with expertise in sulam goyang.
“The art requires remarkable coordination, much like driving a car. Your hands must move in a rhythmic motion, your feet must operate the sewing machine pedal in sync, and your eyes must stay sharp to ensure the embroidery is precise,” he said.
“It’s tedious and time-consuming, but with patience and passion, it becomes second nature.”
‘Uniquely personal’
What makes sulam goyang truly special is its craftsmanship. Unlike machine embroidery, which often creates stiff and itchy lace, sulam goyang is soft, intricate, and entirely handcrafted.
“The sewing machines I use are over 100 years old. The older the machine, the finer the embroidery it produces.
“While computerised embroidery is neat, it can’t fully stitch through lacework. It usually burns tiny holes into the fabric to create patterns, which can be uncomfortable when worn,” Wan noted.
“In contrast, sulam goyang is done entirely by hand, ensuring every curve and floral motif follows the original sketch perfectly. The end result is more refined, comfortable, and uniquely personal.”
Using a special tool called a “ram” to keep the fabric taut, Wan can complete five to six sleeves with “biku” (scalloped edges) in a day.
More intricate floral motifs or custom patterns can take one to two days, with prices ranging from RM150 to several thousand ringgit, depending on the complexity of the design.
His work isn’t limited to traditional clothing – his embroidery can also be found on doll outfits, shoes, handkerchiefs, and even framed artwork for collectors.
His clientele is as diverse as his craft, spanning Malays, Chinese, and Indians who appreciate the timeless elegance of his designs.
Despite his passion, Wan knows that the survival of sulam goyang depends on passing it down to the next generation. He dreams of mentoring apprentices, particularly single mothers and rehabilitation centre trainees, empowering them with a skill that can provide financial independence.
“Right now, I have only one student from Ipoh who is eager to learn. I’m willing to provide support, including sewing machines and equipment, as long as they have the dedication and determination to master the craft,” he concluded.