KL’s 100-year-old Kampung Baru stands frozen in time

KL’s 100-year-old Kampung Baru stands frozen in time

Dating back to the 1900s, Kampung Baru offers a rare glimpse into Malaysia's traditional roots.

Kampung Baru, the last Malay enclave in Kuala Lumpur’s city centre. (Theevya Ragu @ FMT Lifestyle)
KUALA LUMPUR:
Amidst the soaring skyscrapers of Kuala Lumpur, where the Petronas Twin Towers dominate the city skyline just 700 metres away, lies Kampung Baru – a charming village that seems frozen in time.

Although it may translate to “New Village,” Kampung Baru is anything but new – it dates back over 100 years and stands as the last Malay enclave in Kuala Lumpur’s city centre, untouched by the tide of modern architectural development.

Spanning 225 acres, this precious piece of Malaysian heritage comprises seven villages: Kampung Hujung Pasir, Kampung Masjid, Kampung Paya, Kampung Periuk, Kampung Pindah, Kampung Atas ‘A,’ and Kampung Atas ‘B.’

Kampung Baru was established in 1900 by the British colonial government. Initially intended for agricultural purposes, the land was later converted into a residential area when it proved unsuitable for paddy cultivation.

Gazetted on Jan 12, 1900, and later managed under the Malay Agricultural Settlement (MAS) Enactment of 1950, the settlement grew into a thriving community.

The guided walking tour of the village begins at this gateway. (Theevya Ragu @ FMT Lifestyle)

A while back, FMT Lifestyle joined a guided tour of Kampung Baru led by Fuad Fahmy, a fourth-generation resident whose great-grandfather arrived in 1907 from Medan, Indonesia.

“My great-grandfather was appointed by the Sultan to serve as the first imam of Masjid Kampung Baru. After 20 years of service to the community, he was granted a piece of land where my family still resides,” Fuad said.

Fuad, who worked as a travel agent bringing Malaysians abroad for three decades, pivoted to promoting his hometown in 2016.

“One day I just thought, why not promote my own kampung?” he said. That decision birthed the Magical Kampung Baru Heritage Walk, offering visitors an intimate glimpse into this historical gem.

The tour begins at the Kampung Baru Gateway, an entrance marked by a Minangkabau-inspired roof design that pays homage to the village’s early Minangkabau settlers from Western Sumatra.

Sate Padang is one of the unique and authentic delicacies found in Kampung Baru. (Theevya Ragu @ FMT Lifestyle)

As part of the tour, you will pass eateries like the famous Wanjo Nasi Lemak and Pak Saf Sate Padang, which serves the unique Padang satay.

Unlike the usual peanut-based sauce, this version, which is a specialty of the Minangkabau cuisine, features a thick yellow sauce made from rice flour and spiced beef broth. The beef stomach skewers? A must-try for the adventurous eater.

One of Kampung Baru’s most captivating features is its traditional Malay architecture. The wooden stilt houses, or “rumah panggung,” are crafted without nails, standing as symbols of ingenuity and practicality.

“These houses were built on stilts to prevent flooding, improve airflow, and keep wild animals at bay,” Fuad explained. “We only have about 12 of these houses left.”

There are only about 12 wooden stilt houses crafted without nails, called ‘rumah panggung,’ left in Kampung Baru. (Theevya Ragu @ FMT Lifestyle)

After climbing a hill, you will enter the second phase of the village, established in the 1920s, where Kampung Atas “A” and Kampung Atas “B” are located.

The juxtaposition of these timeless structures and chickens running around against the city’s modern skyline is striking, making Kampung Baru a visual marvel.

Many of these century-old houses, adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant colours, are still occupied by the same families for generations.

Food is another pillar of Kampung Baru’s charm. The village is home to several small businesses that have preserved traditional recipes for generations.

In one warung, you can find authentic kuih raya like kuih bangkit, kuih bahulu, and rempeyek available year-round. Fuad highly recommended sampling these treats.

Warong MakNenek, a popular breakfast spot in the area. (Theevya Ragu @ FMT Lifestyle)

The tour concluded at Warong MakNenek, where members of the tour enjoyed light evening snacks in a cosy, rustic setting beneath a traditional kampung house.

Sipping hot tea under the shade of the elevated structure, and munching on curry puffs, it was easy to forget the chaos of the city just a stone’s throw away.

Walking through Kampung Baru feels like stepping back in time, yet the encroaching skyline serves as a constant reminder of its precarious future. As development pressures mount, the question lingers: How long can this heritage be preserved?

For now, Kampung Baru endures as a living museum. Whether you’re marvelling at its architecture, savouring its culinary delights, or simply soaking in its old-world charm, Kampung Baru offers an experience unlike any other.

Find out more about the Magical Kampung Baru Heritage Walk tour here.

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