Old-school stewed fish head at Hock Seng Hin, Pudu

Old-school stewed fish head at Hock Seng Hin, Pudu

Ginger, cili padi, fermented tofu and fishy bits result in a dish bursting with umami flavour, even if eating it - and waiting for your meal - can be an exercise in patience.

Cili padi, ginger and fermented tofu goodness: Hock Seng Hin serves a flavoursome fish stew with rice on the side. (KY Speaks pics)

[NON-HALAL]

As much as foodies enjoy patronising the trendy restaurants and hip cafés ubiquitous around the Klang Valley, nothing beats a good meal at an old-school kopitiam every now and then.

If you’re looking for such a place, why not check out Restoran Hock Seng Hin in Kuala Lumpur? Located in Pudu, this decades-old establishment is known for its stewed fish head served with rice, as well as an assortment of other dishes.

Note, though, that this place is especially popular during lunchtime and even earlier on weekends – after all, it closes at 2.30pm! All the tables were already full by 11.30am on Sunday when this writer visited, and a small queue had already formed outside as well.

You might end up waiting half an hour just to get a table, and another half hour for your food to be served. Thankfully, the old family that runs the place is very friendly, even if they insist on moving at a pace that was perhaps “fast” when the shop opened several decades ago!

Don’t forget to order veggie dishes such as choy sum and pork ribs with bitter gourd to accompany the main event. (KY Speaks pics)

Anyway, you’d be remiss not to order the stewed fish head (which may run out if you’re there after 12.30pm). It’s served in a pretty large portion, with the fish head chopped into small pieces with plenty of ginger and cili padi, and a healthy amount of fermented tofu all mixed in.

The sauce is very, very appetising, an explosion of umami, while the fish head tastes fresh and smooth. However, it also requires quite a bit of patience as the fish (possibly Asian carp) is filled with a lot of tiny bones.

Don’t forget to order a couple of side dishes to complete your meal. This writer went with a simple fried choy sum, and pork ribs with bitter gourd – the kind of dishes that remind you of grandma: warm, homey, and with great wok hei.

Ultimately, this is a place for those who treasure the taste of yesteryear. The food is tasty and reasonably priced (RM60 for this meal), plus the service is pretty good – even if the wait time can be an exercise in patience.

Restaurant Hock Seng Hin (NON-HALAL)
231, Jalan Pudu,
Pudu, 55100 Kuala Lumpur

Business hours:
10.45am-2.30pm (Tuesdays-Saturdays)
8.30am-2.30pm (Sundays)
Closed on Mondays

For location, click here.

Read the original article here, and read more articles by KY Speaks on FMT Lifestyle here.

Trying to influence your cravings since 2005, Kar Yeong was Guest Judge on Versus 1001 Rasa Baba’s 2018, R.AGE Food Fight Judge 2015 and NTV7 Foodie Blogger 2014. To read more about Kar Yeong’s food journeys, visit his blog at KYspeaks.com.

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