There are a few restaurants in the city that specialise in Sarawakian cuisine, but it’s hard to think of an eatery that serves dishes redolent of the Land Below the Wind.
That’s why one proud Sabahan living in Petaling Jaya is making it her mission to cater to the taste buds of her compatriots and to introduce other Malaysians to authentic Sabahan food.
When she’s not at her workplace, Cassandra Jalius can often be found at home either tending to her six cats or cooking up a storm in her kitchen.
So what’s cooking? If you’re West Malaysian and never been to Sabah, you’ve probably never heard of linopot.
For Sabahans, however, especially those of the Kadazandusun community, linopot evokes memories of warm, home cooked food, possibly served by a doting granny.
Similar to nasi lemak or Chinese rice dumplings, linopot is steamed rice wrapped in a leaf and served with an assortment of dishes.
Cassandra makes her linopot the way it’s made in Sabah, using hill rice, a nutritious alternative to white rice. She delivers it to customers throughout the Klang Valley, providing Sabahans and other Malaysians a means to enjoy authentic Sabahan food.
Speaking to FMT Lifestyle, the Ranau native said her recipes were passed down from her grandmother and her mother.
She spoke of fond memories of carrying packets of linopot for lunch break at the family farm. “I’ve always loved Sabahan food and I love linopot,” she said.
The leaf wrapping helps to keep the rice fresh, allowing it to stay edible for days outside a refrigerator.
“It’s easy to take around since you don’t need a container. Normally, you will also bring salted fish or canned food as side dishes.”
While linopot is associated with Kadazandusun culture, it is a treat enjoyed by all Sabahans. It’s found at many stalls and restaurants in the state.
Cassandra imports some of her ingredients from Sabah, and these include wild spring onions, white pepper, salted fish and sweet potato shoots. Although these can be found in West Malaysia, the Sabahan varieties are apparently more suitable for linopot.
Before she began selling her linopot, Cassandra cooked it mostly for her own consumption and as gifts for friends.
This changed during the Covid pandemic. “During Covid-19, my sister and I missed eating linopot because we could not travel back to Sabah.”
To satisfy their craving, they bought linopot from local hawkers, only to find that it did not match their hometown’s standards.
“So, we decided to cook it ourselves. One day, we saw a Pasar Borneo opening in Cheras and we wanted to participate. That’s when we decided to start our linopot business.”
Business was slow at first, but has since picked up. Indeed, orders frequently pour in when she opens for business on weekends.
For RM20, her linopot set consists of her special rice and several side dishes. “If you go back to Sabah, you can get all these cheap,” she said with a chuckle.
Cassandra also said she would encourage Sabahans to start setting up restaurants in West Malaysia to introduce their food to the public.
Will she be among the first? “Yeah, but not right now.”
Follow Cassandra on Twitter for updates and order your linopot here.