A rendezvous with nature at Bako National Park

A rendezvous with nature at Bako National Park

An easy trip from Kuching, this is a great place to commune with nature for a day or overnight.

The Telok Pandan Kecil trail leads from the park headquarters to the stunning Pandan Kecil beach.

Any visit to Kuching, Sarawak, should include the Bako National Park. Opened in 1957, it is the oldest national park in Sarawak and one of the smallest, at 2,727 hectares, on the northern tip of the Muara Tebas Peninsula.

It is only 37 km from Kuching, making it easily accessible for day trippers.

Getting there is part of the fun. A public bus to Kampung Bako drops one off right in front of the National Parks boat ticketing counter. Minivan or taxi charters are also available.

It is then a 30 to 40-minute boat ride through a wide, shallow estuary and across the open sea before being deposited on Telok Assam beach, where the park headquarters are located.

On the jetty is a somewhat concerning sign warning about crocodile attacks in Sarawak, complete with a gruesome picture of dismembered human legs being removed from the stomach of a dead croc.

Apparently, there are 4.2 crocodile attacks per year in Sarawak and this number is increasing. Over half the attacks are in the Batang Lupar river basin.

It is easy to spot wildlife at Bako and the animals seem unfazed by the presence of people.

Within minutes of arriving at Bako, it seemed more wildlife could be spotted than in any other national park in Malaysia.

A family of Bornean bearded pigs was playing on the beach, unconcerned about the presence of people and a group of proboscis monkeys was also having a day out.

There are 18 well-marked and well-maintained trails that vary in length and difficulty within the park. The Telok Pandan Kecil trail, which at 5 km and a three-hour round trip, is relatively straightforward.

There are 18 well-marked and well-maintained trails that vary in length and difficulty within the park.

After the mangrove boardwalk at Telok Assam, the trail ascends through thick forest before reaching a plateau covered in scrub vegetation.

The path continues along a sandy track lined with carnivorous pitcher plants, before emerging onto a clifftop overlooking the stunning and secluded bay below. A snake-shaped sea stack rock formation can be seen just offshore.

A 10-minute descent through thick vegetation leads to one of the best beaches in the park. Some people were swimming but remembering the crocodiles and jellyfish, dry land seemed a safer option.

On the way back to HQ, a short detour takes one to Telok Pandan Besar. The path ends on a clifftop overlooking another beautiful bay but there is no path down to the beach, which is inaccessible except by boat.

The bay although beautiful, has no path leading to it and is only accessible by boat.

Back at the park headquarters there is a good canteen and accommodation for those who want to stay overnight.

For safety reasons, registration at the headquarters is required before setting off on any trail and signing back out on returning.

The organisation and facilities at the park — the Sarawak Forestry Corporation manages all national parks in the state — were impressive.

Check out the website for more information.

This article first appeared on Thrifty Traveller.

Stay current - Follow FMT on WhatsApp, Google news and Telegram

Subscribe to our newsletter and get news delivered to your mailbox.