These days, however, the local bread men that make up Malaysia’s unique culture are fewer and farther between. FMT speaks with four roti bai to learn their stories.
Rain or shine
Sheik Alavudeen comes from a family of roti bai and has been plying his trade for the past four years.
Covering residential areas in Petaling Jaya, he works six days a week from 8am to 7pm.
“My customers enjoy eating my coconut, red bean and butter buns,” the friendly 25-year-old tells FMT.
Another popular item is the Benggali bread: a thick, white, and soft loaf Malaysians typically enjoy for breakfast. The fluffy slices are best served with a generous amount of butter and kaya, along with a good, strong cup of kopi O.
He also has treats for children, who “like buying toys and snacks such as marshmallows, Apollo layer cake, and Choki Choki chocolate sticks”.
“Rain or shine, I will keep on travelling on my motorcycle, keeping an ear out for the cries of ‘roti bai’,” he says, adding that only heavy rain stops him from doing his rounds.
Following in his father’s footsteps
Mohamed Abbas has been a roti bai for the past eight years, following in the footsteps of his father who was a roti bai for over 20 years.
Abbas can be found in PJ on his motorcycle laden with various kinds of bread and confectionery.
“I usually go around housing areas with a honk. If people want to buy my bread, they will usually call out ‘roti bai’ or ‘roti babu’ and I will stop,” he shares.
The affable 36-year-old says he gets fresh supplies of bread from a factory every day.
“I work six days a week. My day starts at 8am and I only get back home at 7pm,” he says, adding that he takes a break on Saturdays.
“Sometimes, even on my day off, I get calls from my older customers who are unable to go out, asking me to send bread to them. I don’t mind helping them.
“I am happy when my customers buy bread from me,” he says.
‘Unappreciated’
Akbar Usof has been a roti bai for 40 years. He is 59 years old but still faithfully makes his rounds in Taman Sri Andalas, Kampung Delek, and Kampung Sungai Udang in Klang.
With different types of bread and confectionery adorning his motorcycle, he works two shifts a day, six days a week – from 7.30am to 12pm, and 3pm to 8pm.
The hot sun and rain do not stop him. “Even when it drizzles, I put on a raincoat and keep on working,” he says.
His Benggali bread, and red bean and coconut buns are made fresh every day in the kitchen where he lives. Unsurprisingly, they are a favourite among his customers.
But according to Akbar, these days, not many people seem to appreciate a roti bai’s bread.
“In the past, many people enjoyed eating it. But I think people prefer eating (commercially made) bread these days,” he laments.
“We used to have five shops where we make our bread. Now we only have one.
“After I pass on, I am not sure if there is anyone who wants to take my place.”
Waning cries
This sentiment is echoed by Sameem Othman, who has been a roti bai for 38 years.
“Back then, I used to have more customers calling out for roti bai when I passed by. They particularly enjoyed my Benggali bread and red bean buns.
“These days, however, I only make enough to get by,” the 61-year-old says.
“I am already old and there is no other work I can do. So I don’t have any other choice but to carry on being a roti bai.”
Sameem, who covers the Kampung Rantau Panjang area in Klang, Selangor, works six days a week, two shifts a day – from 8.30am to 11.30am, and 5pm to 7pm.
Asked about the future of a roti bai in Malaysia, he replies, “I don’t know what the future holds, especially as the days go by, sales are slowly decreasing.
“However, I am still grateful to God that I can earn a living and have enough to survive.”