This is where the rich, middle-class and the poor from every race or religion converge to talk about politics, social affairs and entertainment in Malaysia, said a socio-anthropologist.
Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia’s Professor Shamsul Amri Baharuddin said mamak stalls had succeeded where politicians had failed.
“It is created by the people, for the people.
“It has become the centre for ethnic relations, ” he told FMT.
He said there was no issue whether the food was halal and it remained the only place where everyone regardless of income, race and religion met.
“It appeals to every taste bud and has become a part of Malaysian identity.
“Mamak stalls are innovative, too. If you want capatti, with egg on top, the guys at the mamak will do it for you. Where else have you heard of this?”
The label “mamak ” is used to describe Indian Muslims who migrated from India to Malaysia.
It is supposedly a Tamil word “maa-ma” for maternal uncle. The first “mamak” were immigrants from Tamil Nadu, South India, who opened shops in Malaysia, starting in Penang.
Shamsul said these “uncles” have become familiar features of the street food business.
The Institute of Ethnic Studies (Kita) director said when Malaysians talk about ethnic relations in Malaysia, the only matter that comes to mind is the feeling of distrust among Malays, Chinese and Indians.
But after all the talk, all of them meet at the same place, which is at the corner mamak stall.
“There is music, food and an identity that everyone is used to. In the midst of all this so-called distrust that is worsening race relations, people forget to celebrate something that is created by them — the mamak stall. It has given Malaysians an identity.”
He said according to his study on ethnic relations in Malaysia, there was only about “10% hatred” among races in Malaysia. “Or not we will be like Sri Lanka (where Tamils are in conflict with the Sinhalese)”.
Other than the mamak stalls, there are the kopitiam and McDonald’s. However, kopitiams usually close around 10pm and are too expensive for the middle class while McDonald’s does not appeal to everyone.
“Mamak stalls are open round the clock. It is accessible for all, no matter what time they finish their work.
“People love the idea of having food anytime they want.”
Students studying overseas always reminisce about the days they used to hang out at the mamak stalls as such joints offering food anytime they like it, hardly exist overseas.
In Malaysia, Malays make up the majority — close to 52% – of the population. About 30% of the population is Chinese and Indians make up 8%.
Race relations in Malaysia have remained shaky as seen during the Sept 16 Red Shirts rally and the Low Yat Plaza fiasco that was sparked off by a handphone theft.