[NON-HALAL]

Kuching might be synonymous with kolo mee and Sarawak laksa – the late Anthony Bourdain dubbed the latter “the breakfast of the gods” – but you might be surprised to learn that one establishment in this charming capital has been making a name for itself by serving delicious and authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

Located less than 10 minutes from the Kuching International Airport and a mere 15 minutes from Kuching Waterfront, Lê Sàigòn Vietnamese Cuisine is tucked away in a fairly quiet enclave that remains easily accessible with ample parking space.

Nestled between other F&B establishments on the ground floor, diners are greeted at the entrance by colourful Vietnamese lanterns suspended from the ceiling. Take a step inside and you will feel as if you have just emerged from an interdimensional portal bringing you right into the heart of Ho Chi Minh city.

More lanterns dot the high ceiling, leading your eyes to focus on a map of Vietnam flanked by cleverly arranged wooden windows and doors. A wall fixture depicts golden koi in seemingly perpetual motion, congregating gracefully around a lotus pad to add a sense of serenity.

During peak hours, it can get rather boisterous downstairs. Diners who prefer a more intimate environment can book one of the two private rooms upstairs, with just two tables that seat a couple each.

The Bornean taste bud is unique in a way that those in the peninsula might not be able to fully comprehend. After all, a certain well-known American fast-food joint attempted to expand there a few decades ago, but failed because SugarBun, Sarawak’s homegrown burger restaurant, remained the crowd favourite.

So what led the proprietor, Gerald Teng, to venture into Vietnamese cuisine in the Cat City? No stranger to the F&B industry in Kuching, Teng previously operated a gastropub on the hip-and-happening Jalan Wayang.

Noting that the culinary scene has exponentially matured in recent years, he and his wife – who hails from Vietnam – seized the opportunity to introduce a more sophisticated menu among Kuchingites.

While Lê Sàigòn’s menu does serve a hearty bowl of old-fashioned pho, Vietnamese cuisine is far more than noodles in soup. Teng notes that there are similarities between Vietnamese fare and Dayak food in terms of the ingredients used – ranging from a clever mix of fresh herbs and spices to raw vegetables, rice, and strong-flavoured sauces.

The native Sarawakian diet relies on similar themes as well, right down to the very act of eating by wrapping ingredients around a leafy vegetable or rice paper.

Many of the essential herbs and plant-based ingredients used here are homegrown. Two walls of hydroponic systems ensure a steady supply of fresh, pesticide-free vegetables, eliminating the need to constantly source for a supplier and grapple with ever-increasing prices of raw materials.

Having experimented with local sauces for some of their dishes, Teng decided to regularly import sauces and other crucial ingredients from Vietnam to maintain the quality and taste of their fare.

So, apart from pho, wrapped spring rolls, banh mi, and dripped coffee, what else is there to look forward to when it comes to Vietnamese food? Be prepared to let Lê Sàigòn surprise you with its offerings that are not short on creativity and certainly big in taste.

Take the “No Escape” chicken (Gà Bó Xôi) for starters: a juicy roasted chicken covered by a layer of sticky coconut rice, then fried whole to deliver a crunchy exterior while maintaining a soft, inner rice layer.

Bite into one of these and the flavourful chicken juices burst in your mouth, having been absorbed by the coconut rice. However, this dish requires plenty of preparation time, so you need to provide two days’ advance notice for your order.

With so many festivals celebrated in Malaysia, feasting remains an integral part of communities. Lê Sàigòn revels in the festivities with limited-time menus such as its “Eight Treasure” crispy pork roll; slow-roasted pork with specialty sauces; and braised chicken with sticky rice and lap cheong.

The BBQ spiced scallops and crispy pork legs with fish sauce are also terrific, and from time to time, there are dishes like mangosteen chicken salad to excite your taste buds based on what is in season at the orchards.

A great gastronomic adventure is not complete without the right mix of beverages, and Lê Sàigòn does not disappoint as it offers a wide variety of teas to cleanse your palate, from which the artichoke tea is a house favourite.

Traditional Vietnamese coffee will always be on the menu, or you could wash down the grilled sugarcane prawn and pork skewers with a bottled beer.

All in all, the next time you are in Kuching and find yourself hankering for something different from the usual hawker fare, Lê Sàigòn comes highly recommended for a dining experience that will leave you wanting more.

Learn more about Lê Sàigòn via its Facebook and Instagram profiles.

Lê Sàigòn Vietnamese Cuisine (non-halal)
Lot G6 & G7, Emporium,
9, Jalan Tun Jugah,
93350 Kuching, Sarawak