In Perak, lies the town of Kampar, formerly the centre of the state’s tin mining industry and presently a university town.
Like Kajang and Klang, Kampar too has become known for its famous fare – chicken biscuits. Perhaps you may be more familiar with its Cantonese name of “kai zai paeng”.
Resembling thin, brown wafers sprinkled with sesame seeds, these biscuits are popular snacks among locals as well as visitors. It’s easy to see why as their sweet and savoury fillings are appealing to the palate, with an added crunch that many love.
Should you ever ask Kampar folks where to buy the best chicken biscuits, they’ll likely point to an old bakery along Jalan Gopeng in the oldest part of town. CB Bakery has been around for ages and has quite the storied history.
Stepping into the shop, you’re at once greeted with the comforting aroma of freshly baked pastries straight out of the oven.
Sitting pretty atop the shelves are rows of chicken biscuits, kaya puffs, heong peng and other pastries.
While quiet on most days, the bakery is swamped with busloads of tourists during the holiday season. It helps that the shop has a charming old-world vibe to it, with its display of antique baking trays and containers at the back.
This is where you will also find the bakery’s present owner, CK Leong, quietly brewing himself yet another cup of tea. Despite turning 68 this year, Leong remains very much involved in the business, regarding it as part of his family legacy.
After all, he is the fourth generation of his family to be involved in the baking business and he has resolved to continue the tradition for as long as he can.
Yet, pasted on the wall behind the counter is a laminated sign which reads, “Reason for selling: Children not willing to take over.”
As it currently stands, the legacy of CB Bakery and its secret recipes will end with Leong if no one picks up his mantle. It is the sad fate of many traditional establishments, but despite the bleak prospects, Leong seems intent on soldiering on, as he shared his story with FMT.
“My great-great-grandfather was involved in the food business back in Canton, so his son, my great-grandfather, was sent to Malaya, landing in Penang before moving to the Kinta Valley,” Leong said.
At that time, added Leong, Kampar consisted of the old temple and a mere two shop lots, so there was opportunity to be had.
“He wanted a chance at a fresh start in Malaya,” said Leong, adding that from 1902 onwards, his great-grandfather went about town, balancing baskets of winter melon cakes on either ends of a pole.
His grandfather would go on to expand the business, setting up the Wing Lok Yuen Coffeeshop. “He sold a lot of desserts, biscuits and snacks.” Back then, the family was well-known for its mooncakes, some of which were the size of birthday cakes.
It was also during this time that kaya puffs made their debut. The same recipe is used to this day.
Leong’s father moved to Kuala Lumpur for a time, operating a restaurant called Oi Kuan on Jalan Cecil before eventually returning to Kampar.
“I have been in this business for more than 50 years, since 1972,” Leong said, adding that the current CB Bakery opened its doors in 1975. Since then, he has been baking fresh and tasty pastries on a daily basis, sparing no expense in terms of quality.
Now, the fate of CB Bakery hangs in the balance, with no one currently willing to inherit the recipes and responsibilities of running the business.
Leong is even willing to pass on both to anyone outside the family, provided they have a genuine passion for the craft.
“What I want is someone with the skills and the traits to carry this onwards,” he said, adding that he has personally seen famous hawker stalls dying out in similar fashion.
“When the next generation refuses to continue the legacy of good food, the whole thing ends up lost. I don’t want this to happen to the bakery.”
What if no one steps up to the plate? Leong shrugged at this question, saying, “If I can’t get anyone, I will just carry on working until the day I leave this world.”
CB Bakery
72, Jalan Gopeng
31900 Kampar
Perak Darul Ridzuan