“French food was seen as inaccessible and expensive in the eyes of Malaysians and we wanted to show that it is much more than just fine dining,” he told FMT.
Monico, 32, who is of Swiss and Malaysian descent, always knew he was to be a restaurateur. “It was only natural for me to want to introduce French cuisine to Malaysians because I grew up in Geneva, where French food and culture became very familiar to me.”
Monico admitted that the multiple lockdowns affected the business in more ways than one. The rebranding of Cocott to Brasserie Leon came about as a means to simplify the restaurant’s menu and operations, which in turn helped cut costs.
“It was around June of 2019 when we sat down and decided that we now have a clear vision on what the restaurant should be – a “brasserie” (a French restaurant with a relaxed setting) that sells a few simple but well-known French dishes,” he said.
Served piping hot, the most delicious appetiser on the menu has got to be the Baked Shell-Less Escargots. These land snails are drenched in garlic butter instead of chicken stock or wine and priced at only RM18.90 for half a dozen. Fun fact: on Mondays, you may enjoy unlimited escargot orders for only RM1 each.
The Flamed Cured Mackerel is not an “hors d’ouevre” you’d want to miss out on. Priced at RM17.90, the hint of charred flesh paired with the crunchy and refreshing cucumber and shallot vinaigrette made for a delightful starter.
For something heartier and showier, ask for the Melted Raclette Cheese, yet another gorgeous appetiser that involved half a wheel of cheese brought to the table and skilfully sliced with a hot paring knife onto a mound of baked potatoes, onion pickles, and gherkins.
Monico shared that the melted raclette cheese, which costs RM25.90, is the go-to order for any newcomer to the restaurant. “In truth, the dish has no French roots. This is our most popular dish that is of Swiss origin,” he revealed, laughing.
Yet another spectacle to behold was the Beef Tartare, prepared right at the table, the classic French way.
“Due to the strong taste of the original dish, we have also added two other versions for customers to choose from, truffle and parmesan cheese,” Monico explained.
The need to perfect a famous French dish led Monico to the idea of serving Steak Frites. “We knew it would please the local palate. I did not want to change anything about our specialty dish because I wanted our customers to experience authentic French food.”
FMT had a chance to taste the chef-recommended Meltique, an affordable version of the Australian beef striploin dish.
Monico said that this was the best option as it expertly mimicked the flavour of the expensive Wagyu beef (also available at Brasserie Leon) but for RM99.90 instead of RM199.90.
A vacherin is made up of layers of meringue topped with vanilla ice cream, raspberry sorbet, and Chantilly cream. This one-of-a-kind dessert costs RM23.90 and is usually enjoyed during the hot summers in France.
If you’re in the mood for French cuisine, do drop by at Brasserie Leon. In the meantime, check them out on their website and Instagram.
Brasserie Leon
Greens Terrace, 1-1
Jalan Wan Kadir 3
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur
Business hours
6pm to 12am: Daily except Tuesday
12pm to 3pm: Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: 03 27124481