These lines from the West Kalimantan folk song “Aek Kapuas” – “aek” meaning “water” in the local dialect – softly played in this writer’s mind upon setting foot in Pontianak, a city that offers more than just the panorama of the Kapuas River, the longest river in Indonesia.

In this city that sits right on the equator, every step is accompanied by the aroma of coffee – rich, hot, and invigorating – even when the afternoon sun is blazing. It is no surprise that Pontianak is known as the “city of a thousand coffee shops”, with its people living and breathing the culture of “ngopi”.

Bernama recently had the opportunity to explore the “kopi dulu, baru kamu” lifestyle embraced by locals, most of whom are Malay, Dayak, and Chinese.

The casual expression, commonly used among young people in Indonesia, reflects the idea that one should savour a cup of coffee before starting any daily affairs. Indeed, here a cup of coffee is not just a drink – it is an identity, a culture, and an open social space.

Since the early 2000s, Pontianak has been synonymous with rows of coffee shops (“warkop”), especially on Jalan Gajahmada. By 2018, modern cafés and kopitiam began sprouting up, adding new colours to the city’s ngopi culture.

Today, with 1,035 coffee shops across a city of 682,000 people, anyone strolling through the city centre will encounter at least two coffee shops every 500m.

For locals, warkop are places to meet, discuss issues, relax, or even work. Others simply enjoy the lively nightlife, as many warkop stay open until the early hours – some even operate 24 hours, much like Malaysia’s iconic mamak restaurants.

Local influencer Richard Erfany affirmed the strength of the coffee culture. According to the Pontianak-born personality, the habit of “nongkrong” (hanging out) at coffee shops is instilled from childhood.

“From young to old, everyone drinks coffee. Here, warkop strengthen social bonds. Everyone can sit together. At the warkop, we’re all the same,” he said.

Locals, he added, prefer a session of ngopi over an expensive meal when socialising. “They drink coffee until late into the night. While coffee shops in other cities close at 10pm, in Pontianak they can go on for 24 hours.”

Erfany attributes this vibrant culture partly to the affordability of coffee. “In Pontianak, you can find every type of coffee. Because demand is high, almost all coffee varieties from across Indonesia – from West Java, Aceh, and Bali – are brought here.”

He added that many of Indonesia’s professional baristas who work in major cities hail from Pontianak.

Asiang – a legend since 1958

Pontianak’s coffee culture goes beyond a simple cup of village-style kopi brewed using methods passed down through generations. It evolves with changing tastes and generations.

Traditional warkop still form the backbone of ngopi culture, with their iconic black coffee and sweet condensed milk variants; while the rise of modern cafés since the late 2010s has introduced international coffee staples like espresso-based drinks, cold brews, and latte art.

Warung Kopi Asiang is perhaps the city’s most iconic coffee shop. Founded in 1958 by Asiang’s father, the shop began as a humble stall under a tree on Jalan Agus Salim, before moving to a small shop lot on Jalan Merapi, about 100m from its original spot.

Asiang – real name Yohanes Fendi, 69 – began helping his father at 17, serving coffee while slowly learning the craft. Today, he is regarded as a coffee legend whose brew is highly sought.

The shop is a must-visit for lovers of traditional coffee – famed not only for its strong, consistent flavour but also for Asiang himself: he’s known for serving shirtless, a common practice among the local Chinese community owing to Pontianak’s hot weather.

According to loyal customer Ryan Arianda, 35, queues begin as early as 3am, even though business starts at 4am.

“During Ramadan, they open for sahur, too, so people come as early as 1am. Asiang’s warmth and the way he greets customers is part of the charm.

“It’s not just coffee – there’s kuih, soft-boiled eggs, and butter-kaya toast,” said the Pontianak resident, who has been a customer for 11 years. A cup of coffee starts from as low as Rp9,000 (RM2.30).

Two other legendary coffee shops that are frequently visited are Aming Coffee, known for its milk coffee and lively morning atmosphere; and Weng Coffee, a modern warkop that still preserves Pontianak’s traditional touch.

Together with Asiang, these form the “golden triangle” for coffee lovers seeking to experience the roots of Pontianak’s kopi culture – from traditional flavours to timeless, classic ambience.

But the city’s coffee scene doesn’t end with traditional shops: Pontianak is witnessing a surge in modern, hipster cafés, especially among youths.

One standout is El Luna Café & Sport, a five-storey, 24-hour establishment with a minimalist urban concept, dedicated community spaces including a gym and snooker centre, and Insta-worthy corners – making it a favourite for coffee lovers and content creators.

The emergence of such cafés reflects how Pontianak’s coffee culture continues to evolve without abandoning its traditional roots.