In Kampung Penambang, on Jalan Pantai Cahaya Bulan, the smoky scent of grilled “tongmo” fills the air, drawing those who crave an authentic Cambodian delicacy for breaking their fast.

Popular among the Cham Malay community in the village, tongmo is now capturing the taste buds of more locals, especially during Ramadan. Seller Atyna Za Riza, fondly known as Kak Na Tongmo, said demand for the traditional sausage has surged since the start of the holy month.

“From the first day of fasting, I’ve sold over 42,000 tongmo in just a week, and I’m sure the number will keep going up by the end of the month,” she told Bernama.

Tongmo stands out for its mix of salty, sweet and spicy flavours, along with its chewy texture, setting it apart from other sausages in the market. It is made from finely chopped beef, blended with spices, then stuffed into intestines and “processed using traditional methods”, Atyna said.

“When it’s on the grill, the aroma of the spices and meat is simply mouth-watering, making it a favourite iftar dish that’s tasty right off the skewer or enjoyed with rice,” she added.

The 36-year-old offers two types of tongmo: regular and “tongmo harimau menangis”, which packs an extra punch for spice lovers with the use of more black pepper.

For something sweet…

Meanwhile, on Jalan Tok Hakim here, 39-year-old Suri Wan Ali has been selling kuih sekaya labu for the past seven years. This traditional delicacy, with its creamy texture and rich coconut aroma, has become a must-have among those breaking their fast.

Shaped like a whole pumpkin, its appearance is just as unique as its taste: smooth, fragrant, and irresistibly rich.

“Kuih sekaya labu was once only well-known in Rantau Panjang, but as demand grew, I began selling it here,” she said at her stall, Kuih Suri, recently.

There are two variations: sekaya labu talam and sekaya labu sebutir – the latter her bestseller during Ramadan.

This sweet treat is made using a treasured family recipe passed down by Suri’s mother, Wan Ramlah Wan Harun, who inherited it from her late father, Wan Ali Wan Harun, a Thai national.

“Every day, my husband and I use up to 50 pumpkins to make our kuih. Each pumpkin is cut into eight to 10 pieces, and each kuih is sold at RM5 per slice,” Suri said.

Preparations start at 8am, with the pumpkins cleaned, deseeded, and filled with a mixture of eggs, coconut milk and palm sugar before being steamed for 40 minutes.

“Once cooked, the kuih is left to cool until it achieves the perfect texture – firm on the outside yet soft inside,” Suri added.

Kuih Suri also offers over 40 varieties of traditional kuih, including pulut nangka, sekaya nangka, kuba guling, sengkuang santan, and koleh kacang hijau.

Royal dessert

Then there’s Kelantan’s Jala Mas, once exclusively served in palaces and aristocratic households. Now, it can be enjoyed by everyone – yet its exclusivity remains intact.

Made from finely stretched egg yolks bathed in thick sugar syrup, Jala Mas is no ordinary delicacy. For Nik Azina Nik Abdullah, 59, a traditional dessert maker who has upheld her family’s legacy for over two decades, it embodies Kelantan’s heritage.

“This dessert is not just sweet on the tongue, it carries a history. In the past, only sultans and nobility could enjoy it. Today, anyone can buy Jala Mas, but it is still in a class of its own,” she told Bernama.

Jala Mas can be found in other states such as Terengganu and Pahang, but Kelantan’s recipe and preparation techniques are unique.

“Although they may look the same, the taste is different. Kelantan’s Jala Mas has a secret touch, passed down through generations. In my shop, it is our bestselling signature product,” she added.

Demand surges dramatically during Ramadan. Every day, Nik Azina and her team use around 5,000 eggs to produce Jala Mas and other traditional delicacies like Bunga Tanjung, Tahi Itik, Pauh Dilayang, and Mas Jemput.

“By noon, customers are already lining up in front of the shop. Within a few hours, everything is sold out,” she said, adding that a box of Jala Mas is priced between RM5 and RM12, depending on the quantity.

Nik Azina said she learnt to make Jala Mas at a young age from her late grandmother, Nik Fatimah Nik Him. “Her home was near the palace, and the sultan at the time often ordered this delicacy for royal feasts. My grandmother used to say that in the past, only the wealthy could afford it,” Nik Azina recalled.

After her grandmother’s passing, her mother, Nik Meriam Nik Omar, continued the tradition before passing it on to Nik Azina and her two brothers in 2016.