Fate took him down a different path, however, and Thorlby found himself pursuing another strong interest: cooking.
It’s fitting, therefore, that many dishes at his restaurant, Pickle Dining, utilise ancient culinary methods such as pickling, fermentation, curing and ageing.
Combining French cooking techniques with global inspirations, Thorlby utilises these timeless techniques to craft a menu brimming with bold and unique flavours.
“Pickle Dining is all about old techniques and recipes from different cultures, and bringing them to a modern sense.
“Pickling, for example, is a tradition that has been passed down for thousands of years, from the days before we had fridges to help preserve our food,” he told FMT Lifestyle.
“I’m also all about sustainability, and being good to the earth. And fermenting, pickling, all these other methods are ways we can reduce waste and lower our energy consumption.”
Thorlby has a truly international palate: the Taman Melawati-born chef cut his teeth working in gourmet restaurants in major food havens such as New York, Paris, Singapore and London, before returning to Kuala Lumpur about six years ago.
Pickle Dining, which he opened last year, has an inviting ambiance, its sleek interior evoking a chic Manhattan loft.
Jars of pickled ingredients adorn its walls, a throwback to the space’s history as an old family-owned sundry shop. These jars contain everything from Japanese miso to local “jeruk” like pineapple with lemongrass. Thorlby is a huge advocate of using locally sourced ingredients.
“What I like about fermenting and preserving is that the process is alive. It involves beneficial bacteria that changes the flavour, the texture, almost everything about the food.
“So every time you come, the same dish may have a little change to it. And I like that, how alive this is. I like how this can excite people and change their perceptions of food,” he said.
And indeed, those sceptical of the power of pickling may have their minds (and palates) changed after taking a bite of the sumptuous selections offered here.
Choose from several set menus – Feed Me, Vegetarian or Alternative – or craft your own meal from various ala carte dishes.
Starters wise, the Hokkaido scallop ceviche with fermented calamansi is a zesty treat, inspired by the chef’s time in Peru.
And don’t miss the Sunchoke espuma with pear compote, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, a delicious combination of crispy and creamy.
Another highlight is the lacto fermented tomato, a deceptively simple-looking dish which blends the sweetness of Momotaro tomatoes with the tang of preserved plum, resulting in a powerful (yet pleasurable) punch to the palate.
The sea bream with smoked muscat cream has rich and oceanic tones that make it a satisfying entree, while the green peas with pistachio cream and pomegranate molasses are a delightful combination of striking flavours and textures.
The standout dish, however, has to be the wonderfully tender Angus beef cheek, served with celeriac puree and turmeric sauerkraut. Individually, these ingredients taste good: taken together, they create a truly succulent symphony for the tastebuds.
The restaurant also offers a great selection of desserts: try the chocolate mousse, crafted from cacao from Chemor, Pahang; or the fluffy cinnamon beignets, a treat from Thorlby’s childhood.
Overall, a night out at Pickle Dining is testament that ancient cooking techniques can still strike a chord with modern diners. Thorlby, however, hopes diners will enjoy more than just the food here.
“I hope we offer a cohesive experience for everyone. It’s not just about what’s served, it’s about the service, the ambiance, what I’m giving back to you. For me, food and restaurants are very personal,” he concluded with a smile.
“I hope people have a good time, and feel they have been transported somewhere else. And hopefully they have a dish they are craving for the next time they come back!”
Pickle Dining
23, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
50000 Kuala Lumpur
Business hours: 6.30pm-10.30pm (Closed Tuesday and Wednesday)
Follow Pickle Dining on Instagram.