Eating together bridges differences, strengthens relationships, and reminds everyone that despite their diversity, everyone shares the same table.
Given the reverence for food in Malaysian culture, it should come as no surprise that there is also an abundance of excellent food writers in the literary landscape.
“Tapau: The Best of Malaysian Food Writing 2000-2022,” an anthology of the finest local gastronomic literature in the country was launched by the Malaysian Writer’s Society at the Georgetown Literary Festival on Nov 29.
The book, a buffet of fiction, non-fiction and poetry, is edited by May Chong, Jason S Ganesan and Wan Phing Lim.
The Malaysian Writer’s Society president Anna Tan said the book was a follow-up to the society’s previous reprint anthology, “The Best of Malaysian Short Fiction in English 2010-2020.”
“The book did well in 2022, so we decided to produce a second anthology this year. We discussed several topics, including travel writing, but food was the one that piqued the most interest,” Tan told FMT Lifestyle.
Most Malaysians probably don’t need this explained, but “tapau” is Malaysian slang for “take away.”
“It’s a small package of good writing, to be enjoyed in your own time. We hope it will showcase a wide range of local voices and viewpoints, and introduce them to new readers,” Chong told FMT Lifestyle.
The book contains entries from over 30 local authors, including Dipika Mukherjee, Malachi Edwin Vethamani, Jaymee Goh, Sumitra Selvaraj, Raja Ummi Nadrah, Masami Mustaza, Marcus van Geyzel, Miriam Devaprasana and Jack Malik.
The anthology serves up a wide array of foods for the reader’s enjoyment from more mainstream meals such as French fries and chiffon cake to beloved local fare such as ayam masak lemak and laksa. You might not want to read this on an empty stomach!
The stories and poems range from heartfelt to humorous, from deliciously poignant to delightfully offbeat.
Deborah Germaine Augustin’s “Of Prosperity Burgers and My Long Distance Friend” looks back at old friendships through the lens of a seasonal fast food item, while Sharmilla Ganesan’s “French Fries for Auntie Kamalam” is a moving tale of self-regulation and dietary restriction.
Check out an essay by Ong Jin Teong and Peter Yeoh comparing the origins of chneh hu, a Malaysian Nyonya raw fish salad, with pasembur.
Or sink your teeth into the surreal drama of Foo Sek Han’s “The Picture of Durian Grey,” a story whose title alone should win an award.
“I’m particularly fond of Rasydan Fitri’s ‘turmeric’, about love and ageing told through the simple medium of turmeric-fried fish and chicken – a simple dish you’d easily find on a local table,” Chong said.
“To highlight, ‘Onions’ by Raja Ummi Nadrah was longlisted for the Fay Khoo Food & Drink Writing Award 2017, and ‘The Seductive Properties of Chiffon Cake’ by Elaine Chiew was originally a BBC4 radio story written for audio,” editor Wan Phing Lim added.
“The non-fiction entries in Tapau have a throughline of memory, from clinging to what is being lost, such as in Abirami Durai’s ‘Keeping Chetti Culture Alive,’ to recreating memories of home in Aizuddin H Anuar’s ‘Mak and Ayam Masak Lemak’ and Denise Chin’s ‘Remedying an Immigrant’s Hunger for Home,’ Jason added.
Might there be a second course of Malaysian food writing any time soon? “Ask again in two years,” Chong quipped. In the meantime, she and her fellow editors hope the anthology is a fitting showcase of the rich tapestry of voices inspired by the nation’s rich culinary heritage.
“I hope these stories we’ve selected help to feed your mind and soul. Not your stomach, though. Please don’t actually eat the book!” Chong quipped.
‘Tapau: The Best of Malaysian Food Writing 2000-2022’ is available from Gerakbudaya.