Penang’s Dhobi Ghat, the last laundry district in Malaysia

Penang’s Dhobi Ghat, the last laundry district in Malaysia

Located between Jalan Air Itam and Jalan York in George Town is this 19th-century settlement reminiscent of open-air laundromats in India.

Dhobi Ghat
Dhobi Ghat in Penang was set up in the early 1800s and is the last laundry village in Malaysia. (Bernama pic)
GEORGE TOWN:
Tucked away in the interior of Penang’s capital city is an outdoor laundry village similar to an open-air laundromat in Mumbai, India.

Located between Jalan Air Itam and Jalan York, Dhobi Ghat (or Ghaut) was set up in the early 1800s and is the last settlement of its kind in Malaysia. Before this, there had been several dhobi ghat in Malaysia, including in Perak.

Reminiscent of a bygone era, most of the laundry here is still washed by hand. The process begins with sorting the garments, followed by soaking them in soapy water before laundrymen, dubbed “dhobi”, beat the clothes on flogging stones.

Yuvaraj Muthukannu, 67, a dhobi since 1976 who inherited the skills from his father, said the settlement used to be occupied by around 100 traditional Indian laundry-service providers who had been brought over during the British colonial era.

Now, there are just 15 to 20 people who do this, and even their children are not interested in carrying on the family legacy.

A laundryman, or dhobi, washing clothes in the settlement located between Jalan Air Itam and Jalan York in George Town. (Bernama pic)

Born and raised in Dhobi Ghat, Yuvaraj said his father and others would wash clothes in the nearby waterfall river’s pristine waters before housing development had taken place.

“Every Saturday, nearly 100 people would wash clothes in the river at the same time. Even traders from India would come to bathe here because the Penang port was nearby. The municipal workers would clean the river every Monday to maintain its cleanliness,” he recalled.

According to the Sri Ramar Temple, Dhobi Ghat had been set up by an Indian laundrywoman named Rhanee. The land had been granted to her on May 2, 1802 by the governor of Prince of Wales Island, Sir George Leith Boranet Lieutenant, under the East India Company.

Originally called Rhanee Dhoby in the 1800s, the settlement is known as “vanna thora tedal” among the Indian community here, which means “laundry district”.

Raman Angko is proud of being a laundryman even though his legacy is likely to end with him. (Bernama pic)

Third-generation dhobi Raman Angko told Bernama that many people, especially from the Indian community, still prefer traditional laundering methods for garments such as sarees, Punjabi suits and dhoti, as they worry the material might be damaged by washing machines.

“It takes one week to do the laundry,” the 61-year-old shared. “First, I organise the garments and separate them according to materials and colours. Then, I soak and wash them with water, detergent and some traditional chemicals imported from India.

“After that, I scrub and rinse them by hand before drying them under the sun. Ironing is done using a charcoal iron because it has the right temperature for lasting results.

“I even submerged the clothes, especially white dhoti, in hot water for a few minutes to kill germs and restore brightness,” said Raman, a self-professed devotee of “laundry art”.

Although he does not earn a high income, he concluded that he would happily continue his grandfather’s and father’s legacy, even though it will not continue in Penang after him.

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