The surprising origins of 4 Malaysian delicacies

The surprising origins of 4 Malaysian delicacies

Uncover the history of how Malaysians came to love these iconic treats.

This frothy sweet drink was enjoyed by workers in rubber plantations. (Envato Elements pic)
PETALING JAYA:
What’s the one thing Malaysians all over the world absolutely love? Many would say it’s food.

Indeed, when it comes to the cherished dishes from their motherland, Malaysians wear their pride like a badge of honour.

With many considering themselves walking encyclopaedias on Malaysian cuisine, the real question is: how much do you know about the origins of the country’s most iconic dishes?

If you’re ready to put your knowledge to the test, keep reading. You might just discover some surprising nuggets of history behind your beloved local eats.

Teh tarik

Before the bubble tea craze swept through Malaysia, there was one undisputed king ruling the tea kingdom here: teh tarik. This beverage, found in practically every corner of the country, has surprisingly humble origins.

In the 1870s, a wave of South Indian immigrants, mainly from Chennai, arrived in Malaysia to manage the rubber plantations. Among their baggage was the art of pulled chai.

Fast forward to post-WWII, the neighbourhood chai sellers could no longer afford premium tea leaves. Enter sarabat, the affordable but low-grade tea residue left behind during processing, notorious for its unpleasant bitter taste.

But the mamak vendors were clever; they turned away from the British practice of adding milk and sugar to their brew and used condensed milk to mask the tea’s bitterness. So, ultimately, it was out of desperation and creativity that teh tarik was born.

Roti John, a local street food, was born from an entertaining encounter between a vendor and his customer.

Roti John

When Ramadan bazaars roll around, you’re bound to cross paths with the infamous roti John, a saucy, messy and utterly delectable omelette sandwich with a tale as intriguing as its taste.

Legend has it that back in the 1960s, an Englishman strolled up to a Malay food stall in Sembawang, Singapore, and ordered a hamburger.

The hitch? Hamburgers were a rarity at Malay food stalls then. So the vendor unleashed his creativity, layering minced meat and chopped onions between slices of French loaf before frying up the whole concoction with an egg.

But still, where did “John” come from? Well, the theory goes that Malays back then often addressed white men as “John” when they stopped by for a meal. So, in this particular instance, the vendor might have cheerily said, “Silakan makan roti, John,” or “Please eat this bread, John.”

It’s likely that he did not make an audible pause between “roti” and “John” and folks nearby thought he had said, “Roti John.”

And yes, although this is a very Malaysian dish, it originated in Singapore. And while there are various origin stories floating around, this version appears to be the most widely accepted.

Frequently found in night markets, the local favourite apam balik originated from Fujian, China.

Apam balik

Apam balik, a folded pancake filled with crushed peanuts, sugar and creamed corn, comes in two main variations: thick and fluffy or thin and crispy.

However, it’s clear that this local treat has evolved over the years. Nowadays you can find everything from chocolate to banana apam balik.

But how did it all begin?

Legend has it that apam balik’s roots are tied to General Tso, a Chinese military leader who was sent to Fujian in 1855.

The locals there relished a staple in the form of a flatbread with spring onions and chilli sauce. However, General Tso, who led the army, was mindful not to deplete the locals’ food supplies. So he sweetened things up by swapping spring onions for readily available ground cane sugar and peanuts, meant for the soldiers.

This delicious twist quickly became a sensation and thanks to Chinese immigrants from Fujian, this treat found its way to Malaysia, with Penang believed to be its first port of call.

Eating on a banana leaf is a custom that dates back thousands of years.

Banana leaf meal

Malaysia’s diverse food scene owes its greatness to multiculturalism. As waves of immigrants settled in Malaysia over the years, they brought with them the culinary treasures of their homelands. One such gem is the quintessential South Indian banana leaf meal.

This custom of eating from banana leaves instead of, say, ceramic plates, dates back thousands of years. So, unsurprisingly, it doesn’t have a single origin story.

The truth is that the use of banana leaves is deeply intertwined with Hindu religious practices, wherein it holds a sacred significance, often featuring in various folklores.

There’s also practical wisdom at play. In ancient times, banana leaves were favoured for being economical, hygienic, and environmentally friendly. They’re also believed to be rich in antioxidants. With South India’s abundant banana leaf supply, it was simply a sensible choice.

Whether it began as a religious practice or a matter of common sense remains debatable. Regardless, it’s fascinating to think that a tradition dating back thousands of years still thrives in modern Malaysia.

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