One food item that stands out among the dishes that grace the dining table is the simple ketupat. This iconic rice cake, intricately woven in palm leaves, has become an integral part of Malaysian cuisine and culture.

It was even once used as a tool for diplomacy, with former prime minister Mahathir Mohamad gifting these rice cakes to foreign dignitaries as a symbol of Malaysian hospitality.

The tradition of making and eating ketupat during Raya started in the 15th century during the Demak Sultanate in Central Java.

According to the “Journal of Ethnic Foods”, “ketupat” or “kupat” stems from the Javanese phrase “ngaku lepat”, which means to “admit one’s mistakes”, tying into the act of asking for forgiveness during this auspicious occasion.

Ketupat is traditionally sliced into four to represent the Javanese concept of “laku papat” or “the four actions” – receptivity (lebaran), abundance (luberan), forgiveness (leburan), and purity (laburan).

Some Javanese cultural experts also say the process of hanging a ketupat at the entrance of one’s house once cooked was practised to ward off evil spirits.

Speaking with FMT, Malay studies scholar Awang Azman Awang Pawi, from the department of Socioculture at Universiti Malaya, said ancient Javanese beliefs greatly influenced the elements that made up the ketupat.

“The outer layer of the ketupat with woven palm leaves represents the sins of man, while the white rice on the inside symbolises purity that is achieved after a month of fasting during Ramadan. This is their understanding of ketupat.

“However, even before the 15th century, the Hindu community from Bali made ketupat for their worship ceremonies. Some even say that ketupat and idli share some similarities,” he said, alluding to the South Indian savoury rice cake sometimes served in wrapped leaves.

He added that while the ketupat has come to be known as a traditional Malay dish, it also has influences from the Chinese delicacy Zongzi, a sticky rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaves, traditionally served during the Duanwu Festival (Double Fifth Festival).

Awang Azman said in most Malaysian states, ketupat is an obligatory dish best served with chicken curry, beef rendang, or peanut sauce during Raya; but other states prefer serving lemang, which is glutinous rice cooked in hollowed bamboo, instead.

“Ketupat has evolved and adapted to the local culture through syncretism, the practice of combining multiple beliefs and cultures. Even so, the ketupat is still remembered as playing a key role in shaping the Malay culture,” he added.

While the ketupat is mainly associated with Raya, it has stood the test of time to become a fundamental component of Malaysian cuisine and culture.