The green grandeur of Granada

The green grandeur of Granada

Following Seville and Cordoba, Thrifty Traveller rounds up his recent visit to Spain with this beautiful city in Andalusia.

Granada is a beautiful green city located at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains in Andalusia. (Thrifty Traveller pic)

Granada was the third of the big cities of Andalusia this writer visited in recent months, after Seville and Cordoba, and is his favourite of the three.

The city is located at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, which helps to moderate the scorching summer temperatures, especially at night.

Skilful use of the area’s scarce water supplies means the city is greener than much of Andalusia, the streets and gardens full of trees including oranges and pomegranates. (Fun fact: “granada” is Spanish for pomegranate!)

The sightseeing highlight of Granada is the renowned Alhambra, a magnificent complex of Moorish palaces, cloistered courtyards, and gardens within medieval castle walls on a hilltop overlooking the rest of the city.

Fortifications have existed on this site since the ninth century, but these were gradually expanded and upgraded into a residence and royal court for the Moorish emirs who ruled this part of Spain during the 13th and 14th centuries.

The gorgeous interior and exterior of Palacio de Comares. (Thrifty Traveller pics)

There are three Moorish palaces within the Alhambra, including Palacio de Comares – the official residence of the emirs – which contains the largest room in Alhambra, the Hall of Ambassadors.

The courtyard in front of the palace is known as the Court of the Myrtles, so-named after the manicured myrtle hedges that line the pool.

With its gardens, flowing water, and marble floors, the Palace of the Lions provided an oasis for the sultans and symbolised a foretaste of paradise to come. (Thrifty Traveller pic)
Elaborate Islamic calligraphic decoration and tile work can be found all over the Alhambra. (Thrifty Traveller pic)

The Sala de Dos Hermanas was part of a series of rooms occupied by the sultanah and her family. The windows once had stained glass enabling women to discreetly observe the gardens below without being seen.

The Sala de Dos Hermanas (left), and one of the fortified gates to the Alhambra complex. (Thrifty Traveller pics)

Generalife is a separate section of Alhambra and was a place for the emirs to relax with their hareem – the living quarters reserved for wives and concubines and female relatives in a Muslim household – away from the formalities of court life.

The name might sound like an insurance company but, according to some sources, it may be derived from the Arabic for “Paradise of the Architect”, referring to Allah as the creator and builder of the universe.

Generalife Leisure Villa was a summer palace and country estate of the Nasrid rulers of the Emirate of Granada. (Thrifty Traveller pic)
The view from Paradise. (Thrifty Traveller pic)

Being a Unesco World Heritage site, Alhambra is always packed with tourists; but, by starting early, you can avoid the worst of the crowds.

The expanse of Albaicin, as seen from Alhambra. (Thrifty Traveller pic)

Albaicin stands on an adjacent hill separated by the River Darro. With Alhambra, they made up the ancient Arabic quarter and formed the medieval core of the city of Granada.

Albaicin is a maze of steep and narrow cobbled streets, many of them free from cars. (Thrifty Traveller pics)
Parts of Albaicin are quite touristy. The shops here specialise in products from North Africa, and many vendors come from Morocco and other Arabic-speaking countries. (Thrifty Traveller pics)

There is much more to see in Granada city besides Alhambra and Albaicin. In the heart of the city stands the Cathedral, which took 181 years to build starting in 1523, and was constructed on the site of the Great Mosque.

This building is the Royal Chapel, which contains a museum and is adjacent to the main cathedral. (Thrifty Traveller pic)

All in all, Granada is a wonderful city and should not be missed on any tour of Andalusia.

This story first appeared in Thrifty Traveller.

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