The coastal town of Eyemouth in Berwickshire describes itself as the largest port in southeastern Scotland, even though it only has a population of around 3,600.

The grandest building in town is Gunsgreen House, which was designed by architect John Adam in 1753 for a notorious smuggler named John Nisbet.

Nisbet made most of his money by importing tea from unofficial sources and avoiding import duties of 119%.

The building was almost derelict by 1998 but has since been restored into a tourist attraction.

Nisbet was not the only person in Eyemouth with a rebellious streak. This statue in Market Place commemorates local hero Willie Spears (1812-1885), who led a revolt against tithes on fish levied by the Church of Scotland.

It seems strange now that the Church should have had the power to tax fishermen – it should concentrate on souls, not soles!

On the cliff tops overlooking the beach and town are the remains of Eyemouth Fort, which was built between 1547 and 1559, firstly by the English and then by the French who were allied with Scotland.

Hikers can continue north on the Coastal Path from here to St Abbs or south to the English border and on to Berwick-upon-Tweed.

This article first appeared on Northumberland Traveller.