‘Tanah dan Air’ proves not all teas are created equal

‘Tanah dan Air’ proves not all teas are created equal

From Liu Bao tea to hand-brewed teas, this cosy café at Happy Mansion in Petaling Jaya will amaze you with its varied offerings.

Lau Siow Fei, always with a kettle in hand, prepares yet another cup of tea for a customer. (Shafiq Hashim @ FMT Lifestyle)
PETALING JAYA:
If you’re among the many who love their tea as a much-needed pick-me-up or as a means to stop and smell the roses… er… tea leaves, then you’ll love spending time at ‘Tanah dan Air’ café.

Located at Happy Mansion, a cluster of apartment blocks built in the 1970s, this tea café was opened in 2018, much to the delight of its many customers – young and old – who often drop by for a cuppa.

Black and white photos of Malaysian places of interest are displayed on the wall in the café. (Shafiq Hashim @ FMT Lifestyle)

The café’s main attraction is its tea bar, set against the backdrop of an eye-catching selection of mini teapots and other earthenware on shelves.

Stationed behind the counter is the cafe’s co-owner and primary tea brewer Lau Siow Fei, 38, who can be often seen preparing cups of hot tea for her guests.

A former production manager who used to spend 12 to 18 hours on set every day, Lau said she gave up her corporate job in search of “something else that was more soul-fulfilling”.

Long fascinated with Chinese tea, Lau travelled to China and Japan to study how tea was brewed there and to sample the many varieties available.

She soon realised that brewing tea was something of an art form, requiring special attention to fragrance and the type of leaves used as well as the temperature of the water.

While Lau experimented with different tea-brewing processes, Mahen was responsible for refurbishing the place. (Shafiq Hashim @ FMT Lifestyle)

When she was confident of her ability in brewing the perfect cup of tea, she decided to open her own tea bar. With the support of her partner, Mahen Bala, a local documentarian and visual artist, ‘Tanah dan Air’ was born.

Today, the café serves 17 types of Chinese hand-brewed teas, four types of cold brews and a variety of fresh brews. And breaking with tradition, coffee is also served as well as a selection of homemade desserts.

“There is no tea bar in the country where tea aficionados can chit chat while having someone brew it for them,” Lau said, adding that she also wanted it to be a cosy spot where random strangers could strike up a conversation with each other.

Lighter in colour, the ‘duck shit tea’ is on the sweeter side and is soothing on the throat. (Shafiq Hashim @ FMT Lifestyle)

Tasting notes

As repulsive as it sounds, “duck shit tea” that originates from the Phoenix Mountain in the Guangdong province of China, is actually rather delicious. But why the vile name you ask? It is merely a direct translation of its Chinese moniker – ya shi xiang.

Preparing the tea is like a ritual. Once the leaves are sufficiently steeped in hot water, the tea is poured into tiny white cups that Lau is ever ready to refill once emptied.

Another tea known for its unique taste is Liu Bao or “labourers tea”. Lau explained that this tea has been preserved since the 90’s and was usually consumed by Chinese labourers after a rough and tough day at the plantation, mining quarry or construction site.

Liu Bao tea is slightly darker with a tinge of bitterness. (Shafiq Hashim @ FMT Lifestyle)

Today, Liu Bao is enjoyed by many, transcending the boundaries of age, time and social status. Slightly darker in colour, the black tea has a slightly bitter taste.

Feeling peckish for something to complement your brew? Try the café’s banana chocolate tuak cake, golden tortoise red bean jelly and pu erh ice cream, among others.

Tanah dan Air
CG3b Happy Mansion
Jalan 17/13, Seksyen 17
46400 Petaling Jaya

Business Hours:
1.00pm-7.00pm: Wednesday, Thursday, Friday
1.00pm-8.00pm: Saturday, Sunday

Contact number: 011-2139 8599

Stay current - Follow FMT on WhatsApp, Google news and Telegram

Subscribe to our newsletter and get news delivered to your mailbox.