Liew, who is also chairman of the Malaysia Tea Association, is the fourth generation helming Kong Wooi Fong Tea Merchants Sdn Bhd, a 94-year-old establishment located on Jalan Sultan in the heart of Kuala Lumpur.

“Of course, there have been older tea merchant shops around that started before us, but sadly, they have ceased operations,” he said modestly, while sipping a cup of the amber liquid.

His great-grandfather Liew Da Zhi, born during China’s Qing dynasty, had sailed to Malaya from Guangzhou in 1911 to work as a book-keeper at a relative’s tin mining company in Batu Caves before deciding to set up his own business in 1928.

“It was first just a grocery store, which sold items like tobacco leaves, vegetables, and imported Chinese tea leaves to the mining community. Later, the family decided to focus on selling Chinese tea as it seemed more lucrative at the time,” Choon Kong told FMT in an interview in conjunction with International Tea Day.

Almost a decade later, the business has expanded its range and now offers many other types of teas, both local and imported.

When asked what the secret was to a tea business that stood the test of time, Choon Kong said, “the ability to adapt”.

“We have adapted to customers’ needs and the changing times. We began focusing on black tea in the late 80s because it had a bigger market and during the Covid-19 pandemic, we also started to sell our products on online platforms like Shopee,” said the 65-year-old.

Another family with the legacy of keeping a tea business alive are the Kohs, who have been running Koh Chuan Huat Tea Merchants Sdn Bhd on Jalan Tun HS Lee since 1931.

“This business is a legacy, and we are proud to pass it down to the fourth generation,” said Wong Nyet Fah, daughter-in-law of founder Koh Hooi Cheow, who originated from China’s Fujian province.

The 80-year-old said that she felt proud of the business, as it had humble beginnings but has grown and continues to supply her family with a comfortable life.

“When my father-in-law started the business, he had to cycle all the way from Kuala Lumpur to Mentakab, Pahang to cater to his customers, who were predominantly Chinese,” she said.

The business has since expanded to importing tea from other tea-growing countries like Indonesia and Ceylon, and the Kohs continue to supply tea leaves to kopitiams and customers within and outside of Kuala Lumpur.

She said that the business came with its challenges, including more competitors in the form of new “swanky” and “hipster” cafes popping up around the city centre.

Wong said that a lesser known fact about tea is that it never expires, so she is hopeful that just like the tea she sells, her family’s business will endure as well.