Meet the executive chef of Botanica+Co, Chef Chuan Lim Tzer Chuan, who presides over an 80-strong kitchen team nestled in the five-star hotel Alila Bangsar.

Filled with lush greenery, Botanica+Co is one of the most irresistible establishments in Kuala Lumpur.

But delivering consistency in taste and presentation in high-volume restaurants is no small feat. One has to be capable of leading a team that is continuously challenged by time and volume but still plate out dishes that keep up with the standard.

Here, Chef Chuan shares his inspiring story and what makes a good leader. His story is one of grit, sheer perseverance and tenacity.

Never stop learning and gaining experience

I started as an intern at A’Famosa Resort in Melaka and worked my way up. After that, I travelled the world, fully living on-board the ship sailing through Asia, India to Europe and the Mediterranean as a Commis 3 chef (Commis 1 being the highest).

An opportunity brought me to Singapore for eight years working in five-star hotels such as Carlton Hotel and Marriot Hotel, moving up the ranks from Commis 2 to Senior Sous Chef.

During these 13 years before I returned to Malaysia for good, I learned different things from different chefs, both above and below my position.

I’ve learned a great deal about meat produce, roasting and braising meats with Australian chefs — as they are incredibly particular about handling meats.

I worked on my day-offs. When you are young and energetic and don’t have any family commitment, it’s the best time to learn all that you can.

I was curious about Asian cuisine, so I will request to work part-time in the hotel’s Chinese restaurant during my days off, and from there, I learned various techniques and the usage of different ingredients in specific ways.

That gave me a diverse experience, and it has allowed me to propose new ideas for our vibrant seasonal promotions at Botanica+Co.

Be prepared to work your way from the bottom

A career in F&B is about resilience, taking the long, hard road, and mastering your techniques and skills to perfection.

Behind the recognition, the achievement (and sometimes, glamour), is an arduous journey of “climbing up the ladder”.

When you manage to climb to the top, you will feel it is all worth it. For me, this journey is worth it. It’s my passion.

This industry is demanding; the amount of teeth-gritting hard work you have to go through is not for everyone.

In general, the culture in most kitchens is very hierarchical, and there will be many humble pies for you to eat.

There will be instances where you probably feel that you haven’t done anything wrong, but you still have to stomach it and keep your eyes on the prize.

When I first started, I peeled 100kg of onions at a go. I was an intern then, just standing there peeling with two other interns. After many hours of peeling, you’ll start wondering why you’re doing this. Every chef will have to go through such experiences.

Be transparent with your team

Achieving where I am now from my beginnings at the lowest ranks, there’s undoubtedly an initial worry that my team won’t respect or listen to me.

That’s why I have been very strict with myself, that I will lead by example, and guide them step by step such that they will understand the “why” behind my decisions.

But in general, here are some things that I remind them of:

• Consider customer’s satisfaction and experience first
• Don’t compromise on quality
• Have mutual respect for the team
• Don’t skip the processes

Be people-oriented

Your skillsets are not the most important factor here. It is how you manage your team.

You have to be people-oriented and grounded even if you are on the top of the ladder.

I came to where I am today after working from the bottom, so I understand the mindset of every level. A good leader understands his people and gives them room to grow.

Set an example

Start with practising food hygiene with the highest regard and organise your stations systematically and cleanly.

If the team doesn’t pay attention to small details, the day-to-day operations will fall apart. Each of my team members needs to have this mindset.

We cook as we clean, we follow the protocol, and we ensure we handle our ingredients and tools properly because it’s our responsibility.

I believe that the leader of the team is exceptionally crucial in how effective the team will be — a strong leader will have his/her followers.

Self-regulate

Throughout your career, you will receive criticisms, feedback, or even deal with angry customers about the food you serve.

At the same time, you are essentially creating food for customers with diverse cultural backgrounds and palate.

There is a reason behind every feedback. You need to be able to discern and receive feedback constructively. A chef who can do this will go a long way.

This article first appeared on Set the Tables.

Set the Tables is positioned to inspire and educate those already in the industry as much as the aspiring reader who dreams of a future in the food business, and maybe even the merely curious tantalised by the vast and irresistible universe of food and drink.