On Oct 15, Katiravan arrived in the city of Khoy in Iran’s West Azerbaijan province, stepping into a place often portrayed by western media as a hostile nation with a fanatical religious government and unfriendly locals.
But the 64-year-old former electrician’s journey on his trusty touring bike, Parameswara, revealed a reality far removed from that impression. There were no gun-wielding soldiers lining the roads; it was peaceful, apart from chaotic traffic in major cities like Tehran.
The landscapes were beautiful, the cities colourful and rich in history and, above all, the people were warm and welcoming.
The numerous photos and experiences he shared with FMT showcase reasonably well-developed infrastructure, toll-free highways, modern amenities including shopping malls, and historic buildings representing various eras of the Persian empire.
Despite sanctions, he encountered no difficulty entering Iran, as Malaysians are entitled to a 15-day visa-free stay.
His only real setback was being unable to withdraw money using his Malaysian debit card – a restriction he did not face even in most Latin American or African countries. No thanks to the sanctions.
“My first impression was that it’s not a war-torn nation. Its people are resilient, friendly, and always willing to go the extra mile for foreigners,” Katiravan said.
A tea stall owner even refused to accept payment after learning he was from Malaysia and travelling the world – a gesture of hospitality he called “unforgettable”.
The mystery of the swollen foot
Katiravan’s first night in Khoy did not end well, as his left foot suddenly became swollen, making it difficult to walk – a problem he would only understand two days later.
“I called a local man named Erfan, whom I had got to know through a WhatsApp group, at 11.30pm. He hired his friend’s car and took me to Imam Khomeini Hospital, about 1km from my hotel.
“The hospital staff and a lady doctor were friendly. They confirmed there was no issue with the bone, only muscle swelling, and advised me to rest, avoid walking, and use the prescribed cream and tablets.”
But Katiravan, who is also on a mission to promote global greening, had already arranged to plant tree saplings provided by the local municipality the following day.
On Oct 16, despite the discomfort, he and Erfan planted two Agasa saplings in Khoy city with municipal staff, bringing his total to 135 trees across the continents.
The next morning, as his condition improved, he prepared for his ride to Zanjan.
“As I was about to put on my boots, I found a dead bee inside. My foot had swollen earlier due to a bee sting,” he revealed.
On to Zanjan
Katiravan’s 460km journey to Zanjan across desert landscapes on double- and triple-lane toll-free highways was mesmerising. With temperatures hovering from 18-20°C in autumn, the ride was comfortable.
Despite sanctions, Iranians have made the most of their resources, providing impressive infrastructure and services. Imports are limited and, hence, most products are locally sourced. This is likely why things are cheap in Iran.
Locals also told him that residents of Zanjan are known to be among the happiest people across Iran’s 31 provinces.
Iran’s cost of living is low, with fuel being extremely cheap. Petrol costs IRR 30,000 (RM0.13) per litre. When Katiravan refilled 19.73 litres, he paid only RM2.56.
Tehran: history, modernity, and scars of conflict
From Zanjan, he travelled to Tehran, where he witnessed both the capital’s modern and historic architecture, as well as destruction from Israel’s drone strikes during the war from June 13-25.
“More than 1,000 people were killed. Many buildings were reduced to rubble, and the government is now rebuilding them,” he recalled.
One landmark that dominates the skyline is the Milad Tower, or Tehran Tower, standing 435m tall. Opened in 2008, the complex serves as an iconic centre for Iranian art, culture, and the convergence of civilisations.
Esfahan: architecture and cultural diversity
Katiravan then rode 450km to Esfahan with a local named Ahmad to visit the 700-year-old Imam Khomeini Mosque. He was permitted in and sat with the congregants, admiring the mosque’s highly detailed tilework.
Another must-see attraction is Chehel Sotoun, a 17th-century pavilion and garden commissioned by Abbas the Great. A sight to behold.
He also visited the Motamedi (Mollabashi) House, which features vibrant Iranian decorations and a blend of Safavid, Zand, and Qajar architectural styles, including stained-glass windows and intricate mirror work.
Although Farsi is the main language – not Arabic – many locals he met could speak or understand English, which made communication easy.
Katiravan also tested the locals’ knowledge of Malaysia, and many surprised him by recognising it as a Muslim-majority Southeast Asian nation.
During the day, cities in Iran are choked with traffic, but at night, they transform into vibrant spaces illuminated by colourful LED lights – a sight that belies the hardship brought about by sanctions.
Katiravan’s final verdict on Iran is that it is a great and safe country to visit, enriched by generally affordable prices and warm hospitality.