ROVANIEMI (Finland): Chasing the northern lights in the Arctic Circle is a dream for many travellers. For this writer, that dream finally became a reality.
An official invitation to Helsinki for the “Climate Solutions from Finland” programme from Oct 5-10 opened the opportunity for me to travel to Rovaniemi in search of the aurora borealis.
Rovaniemi – the capital of Lapland in northern Finland, lying on the Arctic Circle – is one of the most famous tourist destinations here after Helsinski. Known for being the “home of Santa Claus”, Rovaniemi is an ideal place to witness the northern lights, which are usually visible from late August to early April.
Lapland is known for its thick snow, magical winter landscapes, wildlife, popular winter activities, and the rich culture of the Sami, the indigenous people who have lived in the region for centuries.
Although I visited in late autumn, I still enjoyed Rovaniemi’s charm, with the autumn foliage in shades of red, orange, yellow and brown creating stunning landscapes.
I travelled from Helsinki to Rovaniemi aboard the Santa Claus Express train, covering more than 800km in a 12-hour journey. In Rovaniemi, I opted to rent a car as public bus services were infrequent and limited.
I visited Santa Claus Village, located 8km from the city centre; the Arktikum Museum and Science Centre, just 850m away from the city centre; and Ounasvaara Hill, which is ideal for enjoying panoramic views of the city and the surrounding forests, as well as a perfect spot for watching the sunset.
Crucially, I also watched the northern lights at Apukka Resort, 16.3km from downtown Rovaniemi.
Santa Claus Village, located at the Arctic Circle, is a symbolic gateway to the northernmost part of the world. The village isn’t crowded during the autumn season, which allowed me to explore at a relaxed pace and fully enjoy the atmosphere.
There, I was given a certificate as proof that I had crossed the famous Arctic Circle line. I also had the experience of meeting “Santa Claus”, bringing back childhood memories of watching Christmas cartoons featuring the famed man in red.
The visit continued to Santa’s Main Post Office, where I bought several postcards and sent them to my friends – choosing for the cards to be delivered in December to mark the festive season.
I also got to visit a reindeer farm and tried a reindeer ride through the pine forests, pulled by a seven-year-old male reindeer for about 400m, which took six to seven minutes. It was a thrilling experience, even though the reindeer pulled a wheeled cart instead of a traditional sleigh as there was no snow on the ground.
The Arktikum Museum and Science Centre, meanwhile, offers a glimpse into life above the Arctic Circle. It provides an in-depth look at Finnish history and culture, especially the story of Lapland.
The museum also provides an explanation of the aurora borealis phenomenon, showing how and why the northern lights appear, and why Rovaniemi is one of the best places in the world to witness them.
Dancing lights
Finally, Apukka Resort is one of the top spots from which to witness the northern lights, featuring wide, unobstructed skies for the perfect viewing experience.
The northern lights, also known as aurora borealis, are a natural display that appears in the night skies of high-latitude regions near the Arctic. They occur when charged particles from the sun collide with gases in Earth’s upper atmosphere.
When the particles interact with oxygen and nitrogen molecules, the energy released produces glowing lights that dance across the sky in captivating shades of green, pink, purple and blue.
I began watching the skies at around 11pm and, just after midnight, the first hints of green lights flashed across the horizon. Initially fleeting like sparks, the aurora soon expanded to fill the sky in a stunning 360-degree display lasting about 20 minutes.
The most breathtaking moment came when a curtain of lights passed directly overhead, dancing and shifting between shades of green and soft pink, flowing seamlessly across the sky.
I only managed to see the northern lights for one night as the second night was cloudy with some rain. Still, I felt incredibly grateful to have had the chance to witness this natural wonder.
While Rovaniemi offered unforgettable memories of the aurora, it also provided me with an authentic Arctic experience. The cold was almost unbearable, biting through my layers of clothing, with my hands feeling like ice.
On the night of the aurora hunt, a light snowfall dusted the chairs outside the accommodation, but it had melted by the following morning.
Yet as I stood beneath the northern sky, watching nature’s most extraordinary light show unfold, I knew this was a moment that would stay with me forever.