The mysterious allure of Ojika Island

The mysterious allure of Ojika Island

This lesser-known Japanese destination exudes a nostalgic charm that will appeal to travellers in search of tranquility.

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Perched on green grass overlooking the East China Sea, this torrii gate invokes a ‘divine gateway’ into another spiritual realm. (Christine Lim pic)
NAGASAKI:
One of Japan’s most beautiful and elusive locations, Ojika Island in the Goto archipelago of Nagasaki prefecture exudes a nostalgic and mysterious charm.

Many of the islands surrounding Ojika are unpopulated, primarily because of a lack of infrastructure. As such, Ojika Island tends to be off the radar for most Malaysian travellers, who prefer to visit popular cities such as Osaka and Tokyo.

To get there, you will need to take the Shinkansen high-speed train from Osaka to Hakata station in Fukuoka prefecture, then take the train to Sasebo city in Nagasaki before boarding a ferry to the island.

At the Ojika Island tourism office, this writer was greeted by Victoria Simkovic, a local tour guide. In her 30s, Simkovic hails from Lithuania in eastern Europe and has been living on the island for seven years.

“This is a volcanic island where the soil is red and full of minerals, perfect for planting root vegetables like peanuts and sweet potatoes. We also grow melons, which are of high quality, and sell them outside the island,” Simkovic told Bernama.

Ojika, she said, was a flourishing and prosperous village during the ancient Edo period in Japan, which was associated with whaling.

“Due to the volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, the sea surrounding the island became very shallow and is full of seaweed. Because of this, the sea is rich in marine life and biodiversity,” she said.

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Boats moored along the main streets of Ojika Island, where fishing has been a commercial activity for centuries. (Christine Lim pic)

However, Ojika presently has many abandoned houses and empty spaces due to its ageing population; the younger ones have left for Osaka and Tokyo.

“Still, with government support and grants for the tourism industry, younger people are moving back to open eateries and shops,” added Simkovic, who speaks fluent Japanese.

She also revealed that in the old days, the farmers and fishermen of Ojika were skilled in making sake as a way to complement their income. But these days, the locals do not make the alcoholic beverage anymore.

“Some of our heritage industries are also dying with the ageing population, with only one man in Ojika who still makes smoked fish, which is sold in grocery stores on the island,” she said.

Today, Ojika Island has a population of approximately 2,300, about half of whom are above 65 years old. Most of the islanders are either fishermen or work in the tourism and retail industries.

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The writer was particularly taken by this 600-year-old Chojuji Buddhist temple. (Christine Lim pic)

Nevertheless, the island’s tourism industry is blossoming thanks to its reputation as a unique and traditional destination for travellers seeking a tranquil village experience.

Vintage charm

Walking through an alley in the quiet streets on Ojika, one will spot a 100-year-old letterpress printing shop, Shinkosha, that has retained its rustic charm and vintage ambience.

Shinkosha is now run by Momoko Yokoyama, who is in her 30s. Yokoyama is a fourth-generation member of the family that owns the printing shop, which, despite the advent of technology, maintains the traditional printing style that existed before the World War II.

The family business started in the early 1920s, and business boomed after the war as it became the lifeblood of communication for the cities in Nagasaki devastated by the atomic bombing.

Yokoyama said she is passionate about continuing the family business and retaining the spirit of Ojika Island. The walls of her shop are lined with typefaces of various sizes, fulfilling the demand for printing cards and flyers for local businesses and the community here.

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Momoko Yokayama is the fourth-generation owner of a printing shop on the island that has been in business for over a century. (Christine Lim pic)

Another enduring story of a homegrown business that preserves Ojika Island’s heritage and tradition is the Ojika Island Produce Processing Plant, where one can experience the process of making and packing roasted peanuts that are sold in Japan.

Ojika Island’s peanuts are unique and prized for their creamy and naturally sweet taste.

Koki Okano, a member of the factory’s operations staff, said although there is keen interest in Ojika’s peanuts to be exported, production is limited to domestic consumption due to lack of manpower.

“There is also difficulty in getting manpower outside of the island due to lack of transport connections. The main modes of transportation to this island from other parts of Japan are the ferry and speedboats,” he said during a guided tour of the factory.

The factory was established about 30 years ago and is operated by the Ojika Town Public Corporation, which was set up to support the island’s agriculture and tourism industries for the townspeople.

Warm ‘Omoiyari’ culture

To experience the traditional warmth of Ojika Island’s culture, staying in a local family house is a good option. Here is where one can experience the Japanese philosophy of “Omoiyari”, which encapsulates the essence of compassion, empathy and thoughtfulness for others.

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Warm and inviting, Yasuyo Udo turned her house into a homestay for visitors 15 years ago. (Christine Lim pic)

Visitors can also get to taste the island’s delicacies and participate in the preparation of meals in the kitchen.

This writer had the experience of staying at a traditional local family house, with her host being 80-year-old Yasuyo Udo, a local woman who turned her home into a homestay for tourists 15 years ago.

Before leaving, one site you should not miss visiting is the white torrii gate at the coast on Madara Island, which is connected to Ojika via a bridge.

The white torii, standing on green grass overlooking the East China Sea, invokes a “divine gateway” into another spiritual realm, based on the Shinto religion. Located near the torrii gate is the second biggest glacial pothole rock formation in the world, considered a sacred site for the Japanese.

Visitors can also rent a bicycle to explore many other interesting sites of Ojika Island, including its rugged and picturesque red coast covered with rich volcanic soil.

Truly, Ojika Island awaits patiently and silently, beckoning travellers to visit and discover its secret treasures.

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