The genial chef believes his restaurant, Emilio Cibo E Vino KL, is the only one in Malaysia specialising in cuisine from Sicily, the scenic south Italian island where he was born.
“I come from a simple family. They taught me that even with simple vegetables, you can make very good food. And this is the idea behind my restaurant: simple, reasonably priced dishes, with a feeling of home,” he told FMT Lifestyle.
Cooking has always been in Broso’s blood. His introduction to the culinary world came from helping his grandmother in the kitchen as a boy: a lot of her influence can still be seen in his recipes today. He then progressed to working in his parents’ restaurant in town.
At around 18, Broso left his home in Palermo, Sicily’s capital, and started working in other restaurants all around Italy. Wanting a change of scenery, he moved to Brighton, England, and then to the Netherlands, Spain and eventually Australia, where he lived for over 13 years. It was there where he met his wife, who is Korean, and had two daughters.
“People ask me if I am Italian. I say yes, I was born there, but I’m more a citizen of the world,” Broso said with a laugh.
After a brief stint living in South Korea, Broso moved to Southeast Asia, and settled in Malaysia.
“I feel at home here. Malaysia is a very easy-going country. I feel very welcomed here,” Broso said. He’s managed to try some of Malaysia’s cuisine, and professes a liking for Klang bak kut teh!
While far from home, Broso still has a deep love of the land he is from, something clearly seen from his restaurant’s rustic, almost hearth-like decor.
The restaurant’s menu is also created from ingredients inspired by Broso’s native land. You won’t find staples such as carbonara or lasagna here: instead, guests can feast on Sicilian specialties not often found in other Italian restaurants.
One delectable choice is arancini, a lip-smacking rice ball dish: here, Broso blends it with cuttlefish, black ink and zucchini.
Another highlight is the Zuppa Di Cozze E Vongole, a briny stew of Australian mussels and clams in a light sauce, perfectly seasoned with garlic, chili and parsley. Try the luscious Tiramisu (made with pistachio) or enjoy the restaurant’s well-stocked Italian wine bar.
An absolute must-try, however, is the restaurant’s signature dish, the Caponata. This savoury appetiser is a symphony of sliced eggplant, zucchini, capsicum, green olives, onions and celery, all bathed in a lovely tomato sauce. The results are a sweet and sour Sicilian version of sambal, and an absolute treat for the tastebuds when eaten with bread.
“Every single family in Sicily has their own version of caponata. Mine is made 90% from my grandmother’s recipe, with a few changes here and there to adapt to Asian tastes,” Broso said.
Broso knows, of course, that just good food isn’t enough to make a restaurant stand out, and so dedicates himself to providing exemplary service. He trains his staff to help customers as much as possible, especially those unfamiliar with Italian food.
If not too busy in the kitchen, Broso also enjoys chatting with diners, explaining the background of Sicily or the reasons behind his particular ingredient choices.
“I don’t just think about this place as my business. It’s like my home, because most of the cooking here is similar to what I do at home. When customers come, it is like they are my guests, and I want to show them the best of Sicilian hospitality,” Broso concluded.
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Emilio Cibo E Vino KL
LG-10 Lower Ground
Glo Damansara
699, Jalan Damansara
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur
Business hours: 11.30am-3pm ; 5.30pm-10pm daily
Muslim-friendly (pork-free)