Threading the rich history of M’sian textiles

Threading the rich history of M’sian textiles

Curator John Ang puts his private collection on display at the 'Limar & Songket: The Textiles That Link the Malay World (Part I) exhibition.

A display of ‘sarong limar’ and ‘sarong limar songket’ with ‘cogan.’ (Terence Toh @ FMT Lifestyle)
KUALA LUMPUR:
The traditional Malay world has long been renowned for its textiles, which are distinguished by their rich artistry and intricate craftsmanship.

Most of these textiles are highly valued, not just for their aesthetic appeal as clothing material, but because they serve as cultural artifacts showcasing the identity and values of a people.

This month, an exhibition takes a deep dive into the country’s fascinating textile heritage, by putting the spotlight on two elegant Malaysian textile styles, namely limar and songket.

Songket is a hand-woven fabric in silk and cotton, which features gold or silver threads inserted between silk or cotton threads through a process known as the supplementary weft weaving technique.

Limar, on the other hand, is an ancient Malay type of weft “ikat” (tied) cloth, produced by a sophisticated technique involving tie-dye weft yarns.

Both these textiles have been used in important festivals and ceremonies throughout the Malay world for centuries, in regions such as southern Thailand, Cambodia, the Malay peninsula, Sumatra, the coastal areas of Borneo and more.

The exhibition features about 250 ‘songket’ and ‘limar’ exhibits from John Ang’s collection. (Kreatif KL pic)

“Limar & Songket: The Textiles That Link the Malay World (Part I)” will showcase 250 striking textile displays from the collection of curator John Ang, who has over five decades of textile research under his belt. He has been devoted to the research and curation of Malay textiles since 2014.

Ang said the creation of these exquisite fabrics was the result of the deep connections and mutual influences between the Malay world and India, Thailand, Persia, China, Arabia, Turkey and Japan.

“Textiles are like a window. They open all sorts of fascinating connections between places,” Ang told FMT Lifestyle. “I hope this exhibition encourages understanding and appreciation of each other’s cultures.”

The exhibition also showcases how many textiles function as intricate symbols of collaboration, cultural exchange, and collective craftsmanship.

Curator John Ang speaking at the exhibition launch. (Kreatif KL pic)

Walking through Ang’s collection, it is difficult not to be struck by the vibrant hues of the exhibits on display, and their delicate, elaborate patterns.

The exhibition entrance offers a handy guide to the various motifs commonly found on these textiles: these include “Palace Gates,” “Shifting Star Flower” and “Chained Pendants.”

This is certainly a celebration of the creativity and ingenuity of the artisans and weavers of old, with everything from “limar songket benang” (a rare limar produced in Kelantan) to “limar bersulam” all on display.

Admire the soft yet striking purple hues of “sewet tajong” and
“sewet blongsong,” and take in the intricately patterned elegance of the “limar berayat.”

Curator Ang is a fountain of knowledge about the world of Malay textiles, and is full of fascinating facts and amusing anecdotes about how he procured the items in his collection.

There will also be a series of activities including fashion shows, lectures, workshops and dance classes throughout the exhibition period: visit the event’s website to check them out.

A display of ‘sarong gebeng,’ next to ‘sewet tajong’ and ‘sewet blongsong’ exhibits. (Terence Toh @ FMT Lifestyle)

Ang said he hoped this exhibition of heritage works would inspire local artists, designers and creatives when working on their own masterpieces.

“I believe in living tradition. You don’t just follow these traditions, but you use them to create something new. Things change, and we have to change accordingly, but let’s not throw the old out,” Ang concluded.

“So I hope fashion designers, artists and architects will realise they don’t have to copy from the West. They can draw from our own culture, which is so rich. We have many, many years of culture and history, which we should be proud of.”

The exhibition is held as part of the Kreatif KL festival from Sep 5 to Nov 30. It is presented by “Samyama by John Ang” in collaboration with Think City, Kuala Lumpur City Hall and Semua House, and supported by the Ministry of Finance.

Limar & Songket: The Textiles That Link the Malay World (Part I)

Venue: Semua House, Jalan Bunus 6, 50100 Kuala Lumpur

Date & Time: now till Dec 15; 10am–8pm

Tickets:
RM5 (Children under-12/Students)
RM10 (Adult)
RM40 (Private tour)

Exhibition tickets can be purchased through Cloudjoi.

Stay current - Follow FMT on WhatsApp, Google news and Telegram

Subscribe to our newsletter and get news delivered to your mailbox.