“In the 1850s, Serendah was a piece of land that was low and muddy,” Ee Yoke Chan, author of “Serendah Then and Now”, shared with FMT Lifestyle.
According to the 64-year-old, the town, which is located in a valley, became a major producer of tin ore and natural rubber in the early 19th and 20th centuries, respectively. In its heyday, there was even a polo ground, clubhouse and rifle range.
Ee, who has lived in Serendah since 1977, conducts a guided tour called the Serendah Heritage Trail, which covers about 12 locations in the town. FMT Lifestyle recently joined her on a visit to several fascinating spots. Here are the highlights.
Macau Street
In the morning, Macau Street is often the busiest street in Serendah, which isn’t surprising given the number of restaurants here.
What makes this place special, however, is the fact that it’s the only Macau Street in Malaysia that has retained its original name. Other Macau Streets were previously found in Penang, KL and Melaka, Ee said.
Many of the double-storey shophouses here date back to the early 1900s. One of them, which once housed a traditional Chinese medical hall, is a striking sight with its sturdy wooden door made up of individual planks.
Wayang Street
Located a stone’s throw away is Wayang Street. While it looks unassuming today, it was once lined by brothels, opium dens and Chinese opera houses.
Wayang Street is also known among locals as “See Hang Kai”, which translates to “Latrine Lane” in Cantonese. According to Ee, an old map shows there was once a latrine at the intersection of Wayang Street and Hospital Street.
Today, a large angsana tree occupies the spot where the latrine used to be. Meanwhile, the name “Hospital Street” is attributed to a hospital that once stood here, built by tycoon Loke Yew for his coolies.
The Seven Wells of Serendah
The Seven Wells of Serendah is a dam with seven sluices to manage the flow and level of water, which is channelled from seven shaft spillways.
The idea for the spillways was mooted in 1934 to mitigate frequent flooding caused by tin-mining activities. These spillways channel floodwaters from the Serendah river through a vertical or inclined tunnel.
According to Ee, the technology used to construct these spillways was highly advanced for the time. From the surface of the river, the spillways resemble wells, inspiring the name of the place.
Gurdwara Nanaksar Serendah
Serendah is also home to Gurdwara Nanaksar Serendah, believed to be one of the oldest gurdwaras in Malaysia, dating back to 1897.
According to Ee, a small community of Sikhs had settled in Serendah by the 1890s. They had arrived to work as policemen, railway station workers, guards and government servants.
Needing a house of worship, the community applied for a piece of land from the district officer of Ulu Selangor on July 5, 1897. It is believed the gurdwara was constructed by one Baba Gurdit Singh late that year.
Shin See Yeh and Hock Leng Keng temples
These two temples are also over a century old. Shin See Yeh is believed to have been constructed by Yap Ah Loy in 1898 for “nai chang” coolies from the Hakka community.
“Nai chang”, which means mud in Hakka, describes the coolies as they were often covered in mud from working in the tin mines.
Meanwhile, Hock Leng Keng was constructed in 1899 by the Hokkien community. It is believed to date back to 1869 and was relocated from its previous location on the bank of the Serendah River, which often flooded.
The temples are located next to each other and are adjacent to Gurdwara Nanaksar Serendah.
‘Serendah Then and Now’ is priced at RM30, excluding delivery fees. To order the book or join the Serendah Heritage Trail (RM20 per pax), contact Ee Yoke Chan at 012-671 8350 or email [email protected].