[NON-HALAL]
This bakery cum eatery has a remarkable story of resilience and a rich history that dates back to 1893.
Today, Bunn Choon is helmed by its fourth-generation owner, Wong Kok Tong. However, there was even a time when the Chinese saying, “wealth doesn’t last beyond three generations’ appeared to be its fate.
Speaking with FMT Lifestyle, Kok Tong shared that Bunn Choon’s history began when his great-grandfather, Kee Swee, who was working a teahouse on 61, Petaling Street, received an irresistible offer: his employer, who wanted to return to China, offered to sell him the business. Taking him up on the offer, Kee Swee changed the business’ name to Bunn Choon.
Over the decades, several of Kee Swee’s children and grandchildren joined the business, including Kok Tong’s father, Chun Hang.
The business initially sold only tea. Later however, they expanded their menu to include dim sum and Chinese pastries, additions that went down well with their customers. Kok Tong’s father even travelled to Hong Kong to learn how to make egg tarts and moon cakes to sell at Bunn Choon.
But by the early 2000s, the family closed shop for good when rental for the premises skyrocketed. Kok Tong, who worked as a photographer then, couldn’t help but feel a profound sense of loss.
“My cousins and I spent a lot of time at the shop, and I had a lot of happy memories,” said the 47-year-old.
Furthermore, the business had survived two world wars, the Japanese occupation of Malaya. Feeling strongly about the business’ rich legacy, Kok Tong decided to revive Bunn Choon.
He set up a stall right in front of their old shop where he sold handmade Chinese pastries such as “kong soh peng”, a soft pastry coated with flour, and “moloso”, a lotus-filled pastry.
He also began selling at morning and night markets, in addition to supplying “kong soh peng” to his cousin who operated a fruit stall. The days were long, but Kok Tong remained persistent.
He later opened a stall at the wet market in Imbi, introducing egg tarts and mooncakes in 2008. As business grew, he moved to several locations throughout Kuala Lumpur before opening the present shop last year.
The establishment is tastefully decorated while the freshly made pastries – from egg tarts, “ham dan so” durian tarts, kaya puffs and wedding biscuits – are delightful.
The egg tarts, in particular, are heavenly: a light and creamy filling encased by a crumbly and melt-in-your mouth crust. The addition of pork lard lends a savoury and pleasant taste.
The dim sum, also freshly made, is absolutely scrumptious. From fluffy char siu pau to “siu mai” and radish cake, you may just find yourself smacking your lips after the meal!
Other items on the menu include rice and noodle dishes as well as a selection of teas. During the mid-autumn festival, mooncakes are on the menu.
It takes less than 10 minutes to walk from Bunn Choon’s present location to 61, Petaling Street where it first started – but for Kok Tong, the journey of reviving Bunn Choon has admittedly been much longer.
Today, the words “Bunn Choon” displayed at the shop’s entrance are a sweet testament to his persistence in giving his great-grandfather’s legacy a place in these modern times.
This feat earned him a spot on Britishpedia’s “Successful People in Malaysia” in 2022. Britishpedia is a biographical encyclopaedia by the British Publishing House.
Asked what kept him going, Wong simply said: “I’m not the type of person who easily gives up. When challenges come my way, I’ll fight back.”
Bunn Choon [NON-HALAL]
3, Jalan Balai Polis
50000 Kuala Lumpur
Business hours:
7.30am–4pm (Tuesday-Friday)
7.30am–5pm (Saturday-Sunday)
*No dine-in one hour before closing time. Egg tarts are available after 8am. Closed on Monday.
Contact: 010-432 7881
Learn more about Bunn Choon on its website, Facebook and Instagram.