McCartney drew her audience to a giant greenhouse in a Paris park for her winter runway presentation, where she showed a collection made from recycled wool, nylon, cotton and polyester under bright sunlight.
Images of melting icebergs flashed on screens as Olivia Colman’s voice rang out on the soundtrack, meant to represent Mother Earth, asking: “What will be left of me, after you?”
Models strode onto the runway parading loosely-tailored suits with prominent shoulders and low-cut trousers, silky dresses cut asymmetrically, leather-like trench coats made from apple-based material, and hulking, cape-like coats made with patchworks of wool.
McCartney said 90% of her outfits were made from “eco-responsible” materials, and said she had sought out solutions that could not be told apart from traditional textiles by the naked eye, such as a white suit made from vegan leather.
“It is one of the most harmful industries on the planet and we’re acting like it isn’t,” she said of the fashion industry, noting the idea was to relay a “polite reminder” and offer some solutions.
The outfits were somewhat more eccentric than normal, with exaggerated proportions, following a trend for oversized suits. One of the models was Lily Moss, daughter of Kate Moss.
Marine Serre’s marketplace
Another eco-conscious designer, 32-year-old Marine Serre, held her show in Parisian food hall Ground Control, among café tables, pizza stands and a florist.
The French designer, who uses as much recycled material as possible in her outfits, told AFP she disliked the way big brands build temporary structures just for a 10-minute fashion show.
“I like to find a place that already has a vibration and energy. Most of the time, when you do a show it’s just in a box, and I’m kind of against that,” she told reporters backstage.
Her models were also eclectic, ranging from older women to a little baby, carried in a white dress and baby carrier combo, screen-printed with Serre’s signature crescent moon.
Other styles included a transparent black dress – everywhere this season – but worn over sportswear rather than skimpy underpants.
Propelled by the LVMH prize she received in 2017, the young designer has found a niche with her upcycling aesthetic and a mix of styles combining sportswear and haute couture.