The town is a living time capsule. With buildings ranging from a former World War II clinic to an istana dating back to the 1890s, it serves as a window into the county’s rich history.

Today, the branches of invading trees claw their way up houses, their roots penetrating century-old walls, and the faint rumble of one or two passing cars provide the only audible signs of life.

However, Papan’s present-day serenity masks its vibrant past when it flourished as a tin-mining town. It was once home to more than 2,000 people.

FMT Lifestyle recently explored the streets of Papan, guided by Jacky Chew Seng Leong, head of the Papan Heritage Conservation Group.

“In 2016, I visited Papan for the first time and I fell in love with it because of how the history was preserved,” Chew said.

“Papan” is the Malay word for “plank” but, according to Chew, the town’s link to the timber industry is debatable.

While working at the Kinta Tin Mining Museum in Kampar, he discovered that Papan was one of the earliest tin frontiers in the Kinta Valley, attracting many migrants and establishing itself as one of Perak’s primary commercial centres.

“Papan had its own factories, police station, market, stable, magistrate office, Chinese opera theatre, dispensary, post offices, schools, temples, and even a prison as early as 1887,” he said.

“It was definitely a very complete township, ahead of many other tin towns in the region.”

So, why did life fade away? The answer lies in the very reason Papan grew in popularity: the tin-mining industry. As the demand for tin dwindled across Malaya in the early 1900s, the town experienced a sharp decline in both its population and commercial activities.

Chew said many residents moved to Ipoh, which was thriving.

Among Papan’s remaining buildings is No. 74 Main Street, the clinic of Sybil Kathigasu, a war hero and the only Malayan woman ever awarded the George Medal for bravery.

Sybil and her physician husband provided medical aid to resistance fighters during the Japanese Occupation, saving many lives before the Japanese arrested and tortured them.

“All her heroic acts, whatever she did during the Japanese occupation, were in Papan,” Chew said. “She lived in this town for only about 22 months, but she left this legacy behind.”

While her clinic is inaccessible to visitors today, the thought that those quiet alleys were once graced by the presence of such a remarkable figure is truly gripping.

Although many of the buildings in Papan are worn down, a few remarkable monuments dating back more than 100 years still stand strong, preserving the town’s rich heritage.

Perched on a slight hill, you’ll find the grand Istana Raja Billah, completed in 1896 by local chief Raja Bilah. Once the town’s administrative house, this majestic building is a stately centrepiece with its original carved facade largely intact.

Nearby, you’ll find the Masjid Lama Papan, one of the oldest mosques in Perak, completed in 1888. Its unique Mandailing architectural characteristics make it a sight to behold.

“What Papan has is history,” Chew said. “So I say, why don’t we try to revive this old town using its rich history as its unique selling point?”

He emphasised the importance of maintaining authenticity.

“All the artefacts, the objects you see in this gallery, were donated from the old folks living in Papan,” he said. “We wanted to keep things as authentic as possible, which is why we didn’t refurbish any of the buildings in a major way.”

The residents’ enthusiasm over the conservation effort surprised Chew.

“When we started our conservation process in Papan, the old folks living here were very fascinated. They found it funny. They didn’t understand why this group of people were so interested in their stories and this small town.”

The current residents are mostly elderly. Some have remained in Papan because economic constraints prevented them from moving out; while others have stayed because of their deep attachment to the town.

FMT Lifestyle met with 88-year-old Lau Chuen Yau, who has lived in Papan for 70 years.

“Back in the day, this main street where we are standing was filled with people. Over time, most families had to move out and it became very quiet. But today, I’m very happy to see people coming into Papan again,” she said.

With the dedication of the Papan Heritage Conservation Group, this near-forgotten town has been given a new lease on life.

“Every place, every artefact has a story,” Chew said. “We will lose our identity as Malaysians if we don’t preserve it.”

All in all, Papan is far from being a ghost town. Behind its weathered look, it holds profound significance to the country’s history, making it a not-to-be-missed destination for Malaysian travellers.