In 2017, Chua was working in construction in China, and he was miserable. Work stress, an unhealthy diet and too much alcohol took a toll on his health, resulting in gout, high blood pressure, and liver problems.
One day, Chua was invited to his uncle’s tea plantation in Fujian. Figuring he had nothing to lose, he decided to stay for some time, while changing his diet and drinking several cups of tea daily.
Within several months, he noticed drastic improvements to his health, and he even lost over 20kg.
Returning to Malaysia in 2019, Chua decided to bring some of the plantation’s supply with him.
He also opened Yi Shan Ge, a tranquil teahouse in his hometown of Seremban. This was after he realised most places here only served drinks with sugar – something that healthwise, was not his cup of tea.
“So I would often invite my friends back to my house to hang out. A lot of times, I would end up introducing them to tea. So I thought to myself, why not open a tea house?” Chua, 39, said with a laugh during an interview with FMT.
Stepping into Yi Shan Ge (which roughly translates to ‘arts giving space’), feels like being transported into an older, simpler time.
Old-school rattan furniture and a vintage record player give the space a rustic charm. Synthetic bamboo shoots stretch in a row by one of the tables, while Chinese calligraphy scrolls and tea-making paraphernalia are displayed on the walls.
A striking mural of Lu Yu, the Chinese Sage of Tea is emblazoned on one wall, holding what appears to be a carp: a testament to Chua’s love of fish, he admitted with a laugh.
Chua starts to boil a new pot of tea: his hands move with a steady dexterity. For him, every step in this age-old process, no matter how minor, is important.
“A lot of people tell me it’s a hassle to make tea. I don’t think this is true, I think they are just not very familiar with the process. Once you get used to it, it’s nothing. Making tea gives you a chance to think, to be in the moment. And sharing tea with your friends is very worthwhile,” he says.
Yi Shan Ge serves about 30 types of teas, with their Fujian white tea the most popular. The spot is also a popular place for events, many centred around tea-making.
In 2021, Chua started SHAY Artisan Handcrafted Tea, an all-natural and sustainably-sourced loose-leaf tea company stocking teaware, cold brews and single origin teas. Most of their products are sourced from narcissus and Buddha’s hand tea leaves from Chua’s uncle’s farm.
According to him, SHAY’s handmade teas are of high standards. Their plants are grown on a small scale to maintain quality control, packed in China and sent to Malaysia within the week to maintain their prime condition.
In conjunction with World Tea Day today, FMT asked Chua for tips on choosing and brewing an optimal cup of this fine beverage. And the man was more than happy to oblige.
When choosing a blend, drink some of it first, he said. Don’t decide based on aroma alone: the tea leaves will smell different when brewed. Also avoid tea leaves that have been exposed to light for long, as this oxidises them and affects their quality.
“When making tea, 100℃ is a good temperature. Don’t soak the tea leaves too much, 10 seconds is usually more than enough.”
Chua’s mission is to keep promoting tea culture through SHAY and his teahouse. He said he hoped more people from other cultures would appreciate this beverage, and discover its natural health benefits.
“Tea is a big part of many people’s lives. We’ve had the tradition of having ‘tea breaks’ for so many years. This humble drink has so many varieties, it can suit almost everyone.
“I hope that in picking out tea, people start to consider its value, more so than just its price.”
Yi Shan Ge
132, Jalan Dato Siamang Gagap,
Taman Cermai Jaya,
70100 Seremban, Negeri Sembilan
Business hours: 3pm-11pm (closed on Thursdays)
Check out SHAY Artisan Handcrafted Teas on their website or follow them on Facebook.