Devilishly spicy Melaka Portuguese fare at Kumi

Devilishly spicy Melaka Portuguese fare at Kumi

Established by a Eurasian family, Kumi serves all sorts of authentic delicacies that one would often be hard-pressed to find outside Melaka.

Lovers of all things spicy and savoury would do well to visit Kumi, a quaint restaurant serving authentic Eurasian cuisine. (Cecilia Cletus @ FMT Lifestyle pic)
KUALA LUMPUR:
Eurasian cuisine, such as that found in the famed Portuguese Settlement of Melaka, has acquired a legion of fans among Malaysians, with its unique spicy and sour flavours appealing to many.

But outside of Melaka, you’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant serving delicious and authentic Eurasian food at reasonable prices.

However, residents of Bukit Damansara have just the place to satiate their cravings – a little, unassuming neighbourhood restaurant along Lorong Setiabistari 2 that is a well-kept secret.

Located on a quiet neighbourhood street, Kumi is a seemingly simple establishment that is hiding a culinary secret. (Cecilia Cletus @ FMT Lifestyle pic)

With a modern but simple exterior, one would be forgiven for not realising that this establishment is a haven for those who love all things spicy and sour.

Anyone who has dined here is bound to sing praises of their Curry Devil, which is well… devilishly spicy! And with just the right amount of vinegar, the strong, sharp flavours are perfectly balanced.

Soft, fluffy potatoes are treasures found soaking in this curry, with chunks of chicken being a perfect addition to the already tantalising gravy.

If the Curry Devil is a dish to condemn one to hell, it is certainly a delicious way to go.

The Curry Devil has a strong, sharp flavour that strikes the perfect balance between spicy and sour. (Cecilia Cletus @ FMT Lifestyle pic)

In the mood for something tangy? The Pineapple Prawn Curry is sure to call to you from the pages of the menu.

Spicy, sweet and sour, the combined flavours from the pineapple infused with the curry is a savoury delight best eaten with a side of steaming white rice.

The curry is creamy, served in a claypot with chunks of pineapple, that bolster the delicate flavour of the big, juicy prawns.

And if you’re feeling somewhat adventurous, why not give the Curry Keluak a try?

Keluak, you ask? Well, it’s a fruit found largely in Indonesia, whose seeds are soaked in water over a long period, then buried in volcanic ash for over a month.

The scrumptious Curry Keluak is a rare find for sure. (Cecilia Cletus @ FMT Lifestyle pic)

It is these very seeds that are cooked together with the chicken and which lend this dish its unique flavour.

If you’re up to it, you can scrape out the seed’s edible insides – it’s a delightful medley of flavours resembling mushrooms, black olives and truffles.

The spiciness of the curries here is best enjoyed with sambal timun to get the most out of their strong flavours.

Say you’re feeling a little peckish for a light snack; Kumi’s Fried Brinjal may appear to be a simple dish, but it’s still quite the pleasant surprise for the stomach and perfect as an appetiser or a snack.

The Fried Brinjal with its thin crispy top is best eaten while still piping hot. (Cecilia Cletus @ FMT Lifestyle pic)

Be sure to eat it the very moment it is served – this way the thin crispy layer still delivers that slight crunch that yields to the gooey flesh inside.

Another absolute must is Kumi’s Otak-Otak, which in all honesty, is probably among the best you’ll find in the Klang Valley.

The steamed fish with its spicy coconut-based custard is infused with a multitude of spices and comes tenderly wrapped in foil. It’s most definitely another memorable, melt-in-your-mouth dish.

The Otak-Otak served at Kumi is fresh and flavourful with each bite worth savouring slowly. (Cecilia Cletus @ FMT Lifestyle pic)

To take the sting out of all this spice, Kumi’s freshly made Lemongrass Ginger is the perfect quencher for your burning tongue, especially when enjoyed cold.

And if you still have some room for dessert, the restaurant has several mouthwatering options.

Sugee cakes are popular at Eurasian weddings but are hard to come by otherwise. Luckily, Kumi always has some available for those with a sweet tooth.

Fragrant, dense and moist, this rich cake is best enjoyed slathered with just the right amount of icing to make the experience truly delightful.

Alternatively, you could give the Sago Gula Melaka with Ice-Cream a try – it’s just the dessert for a scorching hot day. The ice-cream is best eaten with copious amounts of sago drizzled with sweet Gula Melaka.

Usually found only at Eurasian festivities, Kumi’s Sugee Cake is fragrant and moist; perfect for those with a sweet tooth. (Cecilia Cletus @ FMT Lifestyle pic)

It is certainly a grand way to end a feast of rich and spicy curries.

Speaking to FMT, native Melaka restaurant founder and chef, Rueben James Moissinac, said that his dream of opening his own restaurant was sparked when he lost his job as an airline worker several years ago.

Having spent much of his childhood helping out in the kitchen at home, he said it only made sense that he try his hand at the restaurant business.

Although the lockdowns during the Covid-19 pandemic proved a tough time, Moissinac remains optimistic that his loyal customers will return to savour his homecooked Eurasian food.

“These are my grandmother’s recipes. They’ve been passed down through many generations,” he said, adding that it was his pride and joy to be able to share these age-old dishes with his fellow Malaysians.

Kumi
21, Lorong Setiabistari 2
Bukit Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur

Contact: 012-651 1182

Operation hours:
11.30am-3pm; 6pm-9.30pm (Monday to Saturday)
Closed on Sundays

Delivery available by Grab.

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