Led by owner Navin Karu in cahoots with Chef Vic, the team at Manja spent close to one year ‘playing’ with flavours from all over the world – from as far as Japan and India, to Italy and Mexico, circulating the globe and settling back in good, old Malaysia where the signature tastes of Sabah, Malacca and Penang were fused in a magical union that played havoc on our plate and on our palate.
Mind you, walking into Manja was an experience onto itself. Drenched in the warm hues of maroon and brick red juxtaposed with white beams and soft lighting, much of the old architecture of this pre-war building is retained. Brick walls are deliberately exposed to gain a glimpse of yesteryear and an original dark brown but sturdy wooden staircase leads upstairs, taking one instantly back in time, one hundred or more years ago when the building was first built and when families big and small, actually lived within its walls.
On a tour of its premises, we are shown the upstairs where a massive light fixture, hand-assembled inside the bar area, adorns more than half of the ceiling. A skylight in another portion of the room gives you a glimpse of the breathtaking KL Tower itself, bathed in soothing white this time, and seemingly so close, we felt we could almost touch it.
Ushered back down to our table, a Panner & Mango salad awaited us – the first of three dishes under the “Small Plates” category of Manja’s extensive menu that is uniquely based on the concept of platter-sharing. Delicately flavoured, this visually captivating offering of candied cashews with radicchio, arugula, grilled spiced corn and mango was drenched in chestnut honey and extra virgin coconut oil, with hints of turmeric. Light and easy on the palate, it made the perfect start to our shared dining experience.
A Caribbean Style Prawn in Guacamole followed next. Nestled inside a halved coconut, this too made a delicate play on our tastebuds as we scooped up juicy morsels of wild tiger prawns from Sabah, paired with avocado marinated in tomato and lime. Enjoyed with a shallow-fried mantou bun – its was heavenly, just heavenly!
The Ketam Bunga Cake that made its appearance later was a sure winner at the table. Crisp on the outside, and moist and flavourful on the inside, the crab cakes lounged on a spot of smoked cod liver mousse, garlic aioli and guacamole with sturgeon caviar and pickled ginger to boost the flavour profile.
Jumpstarting our tastebuds was the Homemade Bratwurst & Chili Kering, appropriately described as Manja’s Hot Bites. Oh wow! Gingerly taking our first bite, we were instantly enamoured with the spicy paprika lamb and chilli chicken sausages, snuggling as they were under a canopy of dried red chillies, curry leaves, lime, dried shrimp and fermented bean paste.
Our next three dishes under the “Medium Plates” category, showcased the Kuala Selangor red snapper, cooked to perfection in a homemade blackened rub paired with a cream sauce of organic coconut milk with ginger root, red pepper, local spinach and carrot.
Our first pasta dish for the night came in the form of the Tuna Villa Gajah. Served in a huge bowl, the pale maroon cubes of sashimi tuna stood out like jewels from the marinated tuna while the linguine soaked up a thick gravy of soybean paste with curry leaves, aged soy, sake, lime and coriander. A sprinkling of shimeji mushrooms and truffle oil made this dish complete.
Also a favourite was the Pommery Lamb and Hummus, essentially a chilled New Zealand lamb rack with a homemade paprika spice rub and a salad on the side. It was my favourite until the Udang Gala Romesco knocked it out of pole position. This wild river lobster, drenched with a reduced lobster butter was served with a huge mound of pappardelle, flavoured with lemon and marinated feta and sprinklings of parsley, cashews, burnt bell pepper and spiced rum. Now you see why it won hands down?
Just when we thought we’d seen it all and tasted it all, in came the Gunda Gunda – a bold take on the humble nasi lemak. A feast for the eyes and the tastebuds, we were feted to Sabah wild tiger prawns yet again, succulent local squid fried just right (30 seconds was all it took, we were told) and green shell mussel complemented with Kampot pepper, avocado, and a tenderly boiled organic egg. The pandan rice was glorious, and the anchovy and crushed brazil nut gave this deluxe dish all the more bite.
Although rather stuffed by now, Navin regaled us with not just one, but four sinful desserts. A square of creamy, rich cheesecake sitting majestically on an expansive white plate, and topped with a scallop of thick homemade kaya was a joy to behold. Adorning this plate was a brilliant trail of milk candy, mango puree, raspberry coulis, mango cubes, grapes and basil flowers that created a masterful sense of chaos while looking every bit like a delightful work of art.
We also sampled a trio of Summer Truffle Cocoa Mousse – another visual masterpiece showcasing Tain L’ Hermitage Valrhona Chocolate with summer truffle oil. The seasonal Cempedak ice-cream was to die for as was the Kopi Peng and Kahlua, a house-churned local coffee ice cream with Kahlua, organic milk and cane sugar.
It must be mentioned that no meal is quite complete without a drink… or two… or oh well, the six we tasted!
We debated on our favourites and emerged with no clear winner in sight as each cocktail stood out for different and unique reasons. Was it the Oriental Peck with sake, lemon and Creame De Mure or Spirit of Borneo with its famous tuak paired with lime, elderflower and egg white? Who could find fault with the Kopi Peng Martini featuring Vodka, Kahlua, Espresso and Kopi Peng Ice-Cream or the Taman Mezcal with lychee syrup, blueberries, vodka, mint and ginger ale. We were tickled with the name Tepi Kereta but loved this cognac and Triple Sec concoction with lemon as much as we did the Mint-To-Be, a refreshing vodka with sprite, mint and lemon that was hard not to down in one long gulp.
Truth be told, the entire night at Manja was an experience my friends and I will not forget anytime soon. From its nostalgic yet elegant location and interior decor, to the grandeur of every dish we sampled, Manja fulfilled its promise to pamper us to the hilt.
MANJA OLD MALAYA*
Address: No 6, Lorong Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur 50250
Business hours: 11.30am – 2.00am
Tel: 012-373 7063
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*It must be noted that while the food at Manja is halal, the restaurant does serve alcohol.