Since being inducted into the swanky clique of ‘official national dishes’, former kampong girl and make-up-free Nasi Lemak has gone majorly glam (it now goes by the stage name ‘N.Lem’); and can be spotted (in the menus) of Malaysia’s most exclusive restaurants and five-star food courts. Its newly pimped-up, extravagant Michael Bay-produced persona is both classy and delicious, and has earned Nasi Lemak a spot in the lofty realm of haute cuisine, right between Purple Caviar and Gold Leaf Fried Chicken. But once in a while, even the snootiest of aficionados develops a craving for Nasi Lemak 1.0 – last month’s newspaper-wrapped, bling-bling-free melange of commonplace, classic ingredients, served by a no-reservations-required, side-of-the-road hawker stall. Such a craving is precisely what led me scrambling for Damansara Damai’s wildly popular Nasi Lemak and breakfast spread stand, appropriately located at the ‘mouth’ of the entrance to the Idaman Apartments at Jalan PJU 10/1.
The place
Comprising a group of chafing dish-laden flimsy tables, huddled together as if in fright under gigantic pasar malam awnings, the Nasi Lemak Stand is a strictly drive-through/takeaway set-up. Its lack of in-situ dining amenities hurts its popularity not a jot (and neither does its ungodly operating hours of 5.45am to 8am), as legions of patrons drive, walk and crawl to the Stand from far and wide, stripping its tables bare within two hours. And there is much to plunder. Aside from the revered house special of Nasi Lemak, the Stand offers a geyser eruption of Malay breakfast items: dishes include fried noodles, fried kuey teow, a variety of fried rice, mixed rice and accompanying meat and vegetable side dishes, a range of curries, pastas and even grilled items on skewers; while traditional cakes and desserts include Tapai, Kuih Keria (sweet potato donuts), Kuih Lapis, Kuih Bingka Ubi (tapioca cake), Kuih Seri Muka (pandan custard with glutinous rice), a variety of curry puffs and samosas, and a rainbow of other treats. And with prices almost insultingly low, it’s no surprise that items catapult from the tables before you can even think about hoard-purchasing for the coming apocalypse (the Nasi Lemak sells out by 6.45am, people).
The food
My loot of treasure from the Stand, which I smuggled paranoically home, was a hefty pack of Nasi Lemak (RM2.50), 3 giant mutant curry puffs (RM0.50 a piece), and Fried Mee Hoon with Chicken Curry, accompanied by an ample cut of chicken (RM2.50).
I unpacked the Nasi Lemak with the tenderness of an emotional Valentine’s Day gift recipient. Unveiled with a flourish was a lovely medley of old standards: a frightfully generous mound of exceedingly fragrant coconut milk rice (so freakishly flavourful and fluffy, I could have whacked it on its own); a substantial dollop of surprisingly photogenic Sambal Ikan Bilis (the fresh anchovies were an uncanny balance of crunchy and chewy, and delightfully tasty; while the sambal was a magnificent wallop of solar heat); a lightly-fried egg and its hardboiled companion (both egg-semplary); and the requisite scattering of cucumber slices and roasted peanuts (no mere afterthoughts, these were). Rating: 9.7 out of 10.
Not even coming up for air, I next went straight for the Mee Hoon packet, which I opened as if it was a disintegrating love letter. Immediately escaping the paper confines was a riot of sensationally spicy aromas, all of which preceded the humble but appetite-electrifying sight of the curry-saturated, chili and egg-flecked noodles (fresh, splendidly springy and intensely flavourful); and the domineering, cannon ball-sized chicken breast (tender, tasty and largely boneless). I must admit to having had better, but the preparation was surprisingly ‘boss’, and for a paltry RM2.50, this contender was the clear winner. Rating: 8.3 out of 10.
Still standing, and up for another round, I reached for the curry puffs. The puffy monstrosities were a jaunty surprise: the spotlight-hogging golden pastry was soft, light and flaky and not bleeding oil, as one would expect; while the filling of curried potato was bold and piquant, with a firm, moist texture. The only shortcoming was a lack of spiciness – I always look forward to blacking out from the intense heat of my food, so since that didn’t happen, I was slightly disappointed. Rating: 8.3 out of 10.
Nasi Lemak and Breakfast Spread Stall
Idaman Apartments, Jalan PJU 10/1,
Damansara Damai, 47830, PJ
Hours: 5.45am to 8am, Mondays to Saturdays
*Based on an article published by militant foodie, omnipresent shutter bug, indefatigable traveler and bionic blogger, Venoth Nathan, in Venoth’s Culinary Adventure. Images are courtesy of http://venoth.blogspot.my/.